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Old 09-26-2005, 01:04 AM   #1
RKassl
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Winterization-Low Point Drains-ETC

On our 2955RL there are two low point drains underneath just behind the door steps. How do I use these when I start to winterize? First I will be using air pressure to blow the lines out, do I open these during that process? When I pump the RV antifreeze through the system should I have them off to make sure the antifreeze makes it to that point of the system?

Any other suggestions on things you do when you put the Monty to sleep for the winter? We will be storing it on the pad next to our garage. I will be covering the A/C unit and the tires, but otherwise it will just stay there uncovered.

I will try to keep the snow from building up on the roof but that is about it.
 
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Bob and Nancy Kassl Fall Creek, Wisconsin
2015 Montana 3440RL Legacy Edition, G614's, Pressure Pro TPMS, Dish Tailgaters
2016 GMC Sierra Denali 3500 CC SRW, Iridium Metallic, Duramax Allison Transmission
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Old 09-26-2005, 01:33 AM   #2
Bill and Ann
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Never had to winterize but what you are planning sounds right to me. I am sure someone will come along and make suggestions. Looks like a nice winter home for the baby.
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Old 09-26-2005, 02:08 AM   #3
Broome101
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When you get ready to winterize your unit make sure water heater is off gas and all, there is plug outside of heater takes an 13/16 socket remove that plug and pop the relief value above it so it can drain. While it's draining remove the caps off all low point drains and let them drain completely, should be three of them, one for fresh water, other one for cold water the other for hot water that runs throughout the unit. Once all water is drained out put caps back on everything leave plug out of heater. Go under your galley sink or where ever you water heater is and turn the water heater by-pass value so not to waste RV antifreeze. then use the hose that is there that nothing is connected to one end put that into gallon jug of RV antifreeze will take about 2 gallons, then turn on your 12 volt pump let it pump into water lines. Turn on each faucet separately let it run until pink RV antifreeze comes out then turn it off. Do this to each faucet hot and cold side, run the toilet few seconds, then go to outside shower and do the same, this will run antifreeze through your entire system, after you are done with that you should see pink in low point drains. Before you remove the jug open the heater by pass let little bit RV antifreeze go into hot water tanks itself, your done with this part. I then take what's left of second jug and pour little bit into each drain of each sink, shower and toilet. Your done ready for winter.
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Old 09-26-2005, 02:26 AM   #4
steves
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Winterizing:

1. Open the two low point drains plus the fresh water drain and let all water drain out.
2. Remove the anode rod and let the hot water tank drain. I leave mine open for the winter.
If you have the winterizing option:
3. Turn valve to bypass water heater.
4. You can now blow out the lines keeping the low point drains open. - this not necessary if you plan on adding antifreeze.
5. Close low point drain and fresh water drain valves
6. Turn on winterizing valve and put suction line into the antifreeze container.
7. Turn on 12 volt water pump.
8. Open each water line until antifreeze is running out of faucet(hot and cold)lines for kitchen sink, bathroom sink,
bath tub plus the shower line, outside shower lines and the toilet too.
9. Pour antifreeze into the traps and holding tanks for the fresh water, galley, gray and black water tanks.

I usually use 3 - 4 gallons of antifreeze.
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Old 09-26-2005, 03:12 AM   #5
richfaa
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We do all of the above but use a little more anti freeze.We over do it but the stuff is cheap.Also we pour about 1/2 gal in the grey and black and fresh water tanks and store the camper a little nose down. We do cover the A/C and the tires..just use big black garbage bags.Never had any problem with freezing over the years here in Northen Ohio where 10 20 or more below is common. Also have had 2 feet or more of snow on the roof and several inches of super wet snow. We are able to keep power to the camper all winter which keeps the battery charged and we keep some 40 watt light bulbs on in the camper to help with moisture.All this stuff must work because we have never had a problem...
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Old 09-26-2005, 05:33 AM   #6
dbrill
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Don't forget to take the screen off the city water input and press the button to relieve the pressure, releasing the water from that section of hose. Stand to the side or you may get a shower. I usually do it between steps 4 and 5 on Steves list.
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Old 09-26-2005, 05:45 AM   #7
ken
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Our 3475 has the same setup. Shut the valves to the water heater thereby bypassing it and take out the anticrossian(can't spell) tube. I leave the caps on while I blow out the lines at first. Then I uncap the low point and blow out the lines again to including any outside shower you might have. Recap them and pump the antifreeze in. if you have a washer/dryer, do it first in warm setting as so to get the antifreeze into the washer on both hot and cold lines. Don't forget to do any outside shower when pumping antifreeze in. Inside, go the furthest place and start there by turning on the hot and cold valves till the pink fluid comes thru. Do the same in the shower, and toilet. Then pour a cup in each drain. I also add a gal in the fresh water tank so it won't crack.
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:34 AM   #8
CountryGuy
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We pretty much do what everyone here is talking about, but have never made it a point to add a gallon of antifreeze to any of the holding tanks. We empty them really well. Water expands when it freezes, but if there is say, 1/2 gallon of water left in the holding tank, and even if it does freeze solid, how can it expand to fill and break a 38 gallon tank?? Maybe we are missing something here, but freezing holding tanks has never been a problem, even the years that we took the TT up to Gaylord to ski, left it there all winter, used the toilet some while we were there, and believe me, there was NO dumping it in that kind of cold weather. Never got enough in there to break any thing.

We just use the bypass kit and antifreeze, don't blow any lines out. We would be more concerned about using too much air pressure and damaging something than any tidbit of water that was left over after the air treatment. Good draining of the system, and antifreeze, and we are good to go!

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Old 09-27-2005, 02:03 PM   #9
sreigle
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If you have a washer/dryer, check the manual for how to winterize it. Ours says to pour some antifreeze into the tub and run the drain and spin cycle for about 30 seconds.
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Old 09-27-2005, 02:24 PM   #10
Montana_4221
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I would add that you should relieve the pressure from the water heater prior to removing the plug. There was a thread on that subject a while back. It's interesting reading when you get the time.
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Old 10-12-2019, 01:18 PM   #11
Leftie Canuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montana_4221 View Post
I would add that you should relieve the pressure from the water heater prior to removing the plug. There was a thread on that subject a while back. It's interesting reading when you get the time.
Speaking from experience, do relieve the pressure via the Pressure Relief Valve, or be prepared for a shower and a bit of a hunt for the plug ! It's amazing how much pressure is present in that tank, and it can drive the plastic plug quite a distance.
The advice on this site regarding wintering has been very helpful - thanks to all who chime in on the details !

Eric on the Left Coast.
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