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Old 05-10-2019, 02:59 PM   #41
JABURKHOLDER
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Originally Posted by MARTYB View Post
My question did state that I was over the payload rating for the truck. My take is that pin weight and cargo weight are two different things.
Pin weight IS cargo weight.
Cargo weight IS payload weight.
Call it what ever you want, its all part of the trucks GVWR.
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:02 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Slow Hand View Post
The truck is designed to stop the max towing capacity.
The trucks brakes are designed to stop the TRUCKS GVWR.
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:10 PM   #43
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So much opinion and misinformation out there.

Maybe just ignore everything and buy/use what ever you want.
Excessive brake wear, excessive suspension wear, potential handling issues be damned.

Just My Final Opinion
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:23 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JABURKHOLDER View Post
So much opinion and misinformation out there.

Maybe just ignore everything and buy/use whatever you want.
Excessive brake wear, excessive suspension wear, potential handling issues be damned.

Just My Final Opinion
If only it was that simple and nobody had to share the road. I'd sure hate to be near somebody that had an issue because they made a bad choice and it got me caught in the middle of a potential wreck or worse.

I'm amazed at the number of people that think the "pin weight" advertised somehow magically remains the same once they load up their trailers but they conveniently ignore that change in trailer dynamics during the purchase decision. Naturally it is less critical for those that do not load up their trailers... but for FTers this is really important.
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:34 PM   #45
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I've drove Tractor Trailers, flatbeds, dump's, box/cargo and I've also towed 5er RV trailers for many many years and my RV tow vehicles have ranged from 1500 series to now 3500 series SRW... Quite frankly I've towed the current 5er which is a 3790RD thousands of miles with both a 2500HD duramax and 3500HD duramax SRW's and quite frankly there is really absolutely no difference in how they handle the trailer at all. The 2500HD I had air bags installed, sat level and really didn't hardly squat at all with the Monty hooked up. The 3500HD does squat quite a bit, down to the helpers. The 3500HD rides better unloaded than the 2500HD did unloaded and hence the reason I changed. Both trucks handle the trailer fine... I am always amazed at how people on this forum and others talk about safety only comes with dually's etc... Speculation at best... You want to talk safety how about mandatory training & licensing for all these folks on the road that just bought a big dually or SRW & a 40ft trailer and way they go... The idiots behind the wheel are the number one safety issue on the road but I'm real glad you'all feel like you are so much safer in your dually's... This guy that started the post already has his truck and you are all trying to tell him to buy a dually .........OMG get over yourself... What is good for you doesn't mean it is for someone else... Your level of comfort will be different than others so IMHO let the guy make up his own mind as he already spent huge money on the truck, chances are real good that he'll be comfortable towing with his 250HD Ford.
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Old 05-10-2019, 04:29 PM   #46
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Speedster, the OP asked for advice. He is getting it. Anyone condoning an F250 with a gvwr of 10k lbs. to pull a 40' is giving bad advice.
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Old 05-10-2019, 08:21 PM   #47
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A 3/4 and 1 ton SRW truck has the SAME brakes in fact they are the same truck except for the rear springs so how can the 1 ton SRW truck stop better when pulling a camper than the 3/4 ton truck?
I’m really trying to understand that.
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Old 05-10-2019, 09:31 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by mlh View Post
A 3/4 and 1 ton SRW truck has the SAME brakes in fact they are the same truck except for the rear springs so how can the 1 ton SRW truck stop better when pulling a camper than the 3/4 ton truck?
I’m really trying to understand that.
Lynwood
I’m with you. If you go to parts.ford.com and look up Motorcraft brake parts for an F250 or F350 the discription for rotors, pads, calipers, etc contain the phrase “fits all F250/F350 with single rear wheels”.
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Old 05-10-2019, 10:27 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
I’m with you. If you go to parts.ford.com and look up Motorcraft brake parts for an F250 or F350 the discription for rotors, pads, calipers, etc contain the phrase “fits all F250/F350 with single rear wheels”.
The F250 also has the same steering wheel as the F450.

The sticker on the door pillar has the ratings for your particular vehicle. They're ratings, not suggestions...
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Old 05-11-2019, 12:31 AM   #50
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I heard the 450 has the heavy duty seat belts....
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:12 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by BiggarView View Post
Slowhand... you left out the operative word... "yet." or put another way "so far". Not once in my post did I say the OP needs a dually. I used the words "potentially" and "possibly" WRT needing more truck. Yes specs matter and being within specs will determine what one needs. You say you are right at the door sticker. Good for you. What you have works for you. I also did not imply brakes were a sole condition for such decisions, I was talking about control, the last point I made stated in my opening statement. A heavy trailer wags the dog or at least has the potential to. Under those conditions... more truck is better than less.

And yes not everybody needs a dually... the math will determine what is needed, not ego.
I agree and sorry to rip your post. I just get tired of guys saying all this crap about the truck can't stop the trailer. The lawyers are going to get you. My Montana has a gross loaded weight rating of 13,000 Lb's. so I am at the limit of my truck but I dont carry more than I need on my trips to keep the weight down. I do however need to tell my wife if you don't wear that then it doesn't go LOL.

There were lots of things I took into consideration when getting my truck. I use mine for more than towing so a dually wasn't practical for me. I do however tow all over the country with mine so I am not a camper so to speak. I do believe that when a guy buys a camper he should be practical and get what he needs for the type of camping he is going to do. Like a guy that goes camping does he need a washer and dryer or a residential fridge. If you got the money than get the biggest baddest rig but you diffidently need the right equipment to tow it.Again I apologize for ripping your post.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:32 AM   #52
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I tow a 2016 3402RL with a 2013 F250 and have not had any issues with it. I use the Trailer Life tow reference guide as my reference and have been very satisfied with the performance. The only thing I added to the truck were some load leveling springs because the the truck did sag under the weight of the trailer. It still had some articulation in the suspension, but not quite enough and would bottom out over substantial bumps/pot holes. The load leveling springs did the trick. If I had it to do over again, I would go with an F350 and may do that for my next truck. Your 250 should be fine. Just check the towing guide or have the dealer look it up for you. Good luck!
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:36 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by William J Stocker Sr View Post
The F250 also has the same steering wheel as the F450.

The sticker on the door pillar has the ratings for your particular vehicle. They're ratings, not suggestions...
I am not questioning the ratings of the trucks. Just the frequent comment that the F250 doesn’t have the braking power of the F350 SRW.
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:03 AM   #54
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Thank you all for the information, got some good advice. I guess I didn't know what a hot topic this was but for good reason. Ultimately I will make the right decision, I too want to be safe and keep the people on the road with me safe while trying to accommodate my wants and needs in a 5th wheel.
I know I have enough truck now, it just comes with some sacrifice on the size of trailer I buy.

Sorry for opening this can of worms again, quite alot of different opinions for sure.

Thanks again for all the responses, went and looked at rv's again yesterday, !!!

Jeff
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:11 AM   #55
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Speedster, the OP asked for advice. He is getting it. Anyone condoning an F250 with a gvwr of 10k lbs. to pull a 40' is giving bad advice.
EXACTLY. When someone ASKS for advice on here they deserve the debate that has happened here.

CLEARLY everyone and his brother has thoughts on this!

The one thing I try to do when I answer the question is keep the OP in mind NOT the rest of you. If I was new to the towing game and was asking such questions I would want someone to steer me in the direction of being safe for certain. That's why I tell folks like that what I consider the safest route. IF they decide to do less then its on them and I have a clear conscious.

I do agree with one thing for sure though. There are a lot of folks that have never towed that go out and buy a 40' 5th wheel and head off down the road. I fear those folks far more than those who are a little overweight!!
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:15 AM   #56
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Thank you all for the information, got some good advice. I guess I didn't know what a hot topic this was but for good reason. .....

Sorry for opening this can of worms again, quite alot of different opinions for sure.......
We wouldn’t know what to do without a hot truck discussion every couple weeks.
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:28 AM   #57
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You mean every other day
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:02 PM   #58
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Seems like it never ends, let alone every other day.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:28 PM   #59
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Its pretty darn simple to me. You truck and or trailer have many different weight ratings that are NOT to be exceeded...…..

Lets think of this in another way, lets say you are building a house. Its location is in my neck of the woods (central MD) where you can get 3-4 feet of snow on occasion. But because its cheaper or what ever reason, you decide to get roof trusses engineered to meet the roof load of, say (Columbia SC). Will that work and hold the roof up ?. Absolutely, until it snows 4 feet and causes the roof collapse.

I am not an engineer by any stretch of imagination, but I am pretty sure things like the bridges we all drive over are designed to handle the maximum weight that could be put upon them. (Think the Chesapeake Bay bridge with 80k tractor trailers lined end to end.

Our trucks are the same way. There is a reason for the yellow sticker on the door jamb that states its maximum payload capacity.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:05 AM   #60
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The 10,000 pound gvwr for "3/4 ton" trucks is really nothing more than a registration and licensing scheme. 10,000 minus your truck weight equals your payload capacity. The axle ratings on most of these HD 2500/250 trucks will be a lot more than that. The tires will sometimes be a limiting factor but they can be changed and upgraded.

I'm positive my 2015.5 Chevrolet 2500HD crew cab duramax 4x4 with 6 ft 6 inch bed would have pulled the Montana HC I have now, and also stopped it. I would have been over the payload of 2325 pounds but well under my IL license plate of 14,000 pounds.

But we were looking at fifth wheels to live in and all of them were huge, I went ahead and traded for a dually before we bought the Montana. For my own piece of mind. I didn't like the thought of a 41 ft fifth wheel pushing me down the curvy roads of Monteagle Mountain on my way to Florida in my short bed single wheel duramax.

Chevy said my duramax said it would pull a fifth wheel of over 17,000 pounds, my Montana tops out at 16,500.
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