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08-25-2014, 09:04 PM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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A Not So Colossal Mod
I decided to install an accumulator tank on the fresh water circuit to cut down on the cycling say late at night in the John or washing up afterwards when camping at a site W/O water. It does allow water flow for a bit before the pump kicks on, but it also makes the pump run longer filling the accumulator back up once it uses the stored volume of water. A trade-off I hadn't put much thought to. Anyways, I removed the plastic partition behind the convenience center, rolled two rings and padded them with adhesive backed foam, mounted them to the rear storage compartment wall, then spliced into the pressure line off the pump. I just hadn't put the partition back on in the last photo.
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08-25-2014, 09:10 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,750
M.O.C. #7560
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Nice Job! I may have to think about that myself especially since we may be going to Q again this year!
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08-26-2014, 04:52 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,370
M.O.C. #8728
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I did that last year and like it.
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08-26-2014, 05:18 AM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield
Posts: 322
M.O.C. #13660
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Looks great! Have been thinking about doing this to our rig as well but was wondering if there are any special steps that need to be taken when winterizing at the end of the season. Seems like the accumulator tank would take quite a bit of the pink stuff. Also might be overkill but I like to use compressed air to purge the water system before pumping in the antifreeze and not sure how this would be done. Tim
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08-26-2014, 05:49 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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Nice job... as always. You do good work.
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08-26-2014, 07:28 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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Nice clean looking job!
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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08-26-2014, 08:07 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Tim Weber ... I anticipated the winterizing issue with the "pink stuff". Although I usually just blow my lines out, I bought one of these 1/2" quick disconnect tees that sticks in the 1/2" quick disconnect by 3/4" NPT fitting in the bottom of the accumulator should I go the "pink stuff" route. All I have to do is release the tee from the accumulator and cap it with a quick disconnect cap.
http://www.menards.com/main/p-2276606-c-12709.htm
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08-27-2014, 04:08 AM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield
Posts: 322
M.O.C. #13660
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dieselguy, thanks for the explanation and link. One additional question, once the 'T' is released from the accumulator and capped is it fair to assume the tank gravity drains so no further care needs to be taken there? Thanks for your patients, I have messed with a great deal of projects on all of the RV's that we have owned but am very unfamiliar with this project. Tim
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08-27-2014, 07:42 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Tim ... before disconnecting the tee ... with the pump off or the campground fresh water disconnected just open any faucet on your rig. The water pressure in the accumulator will drain away on its own. When you remove the fitting from the bottom, a quart or so may still work its way out depending on the size of the bladder inside as it doesn't fill the entire cavity.
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08-27-2014, 09:19 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 894
M.O.C. #14417
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I've been thinking about this mod also and thanks for posting the pics. Is that a water filter you have installed in your last picture? What lines did you hook that up to?
__________________
Lenny and Ros
2012 Montana 3400RL,680 Watts Solar,4xT-105 Trojans,GP-ISW2000-12 Inverter,Trimetric 2020, EMSHW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 3500 LTZ Duramax 4x4 CC Dually, Banks Speed Brake
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08-27-2014, 09:21 AM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield
Posts: 322
M.O.C. #13660
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dieselguy, thanks greatly for the information. I believe this is a mod that may very well find its way into the Monty in the near future. Also thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. After your explanation it makes sense that the tank pressure would force the remaining liquid out with an open faucet and no other source of pressure supplying the system. Tim
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08-27-2014, 10:05 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Lenny ... I spiced into the line right behind the convenience center that supplies city water to the fiver. You can see them dangling behind the shower drain a bit to the right. I temporarily removed the filter as I can't completely remove the plastic wall with it in place. If I do need to isolate the accumulator should I do the "pink stuff" winterization (I usually blow my lines out) ... removing 4 screws on the inboard part of the plastic partition will allow access without removing the entire partition. I guess one could cut a hole in the plastic partition and make an access plate as well.
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08-27-2014, 12:17 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 894
M.O.C. #14417
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Thanks Kansas. This leads me to another question. Is your water filter on the outside of the partition?
__________________
Lenny and Ros
2012 Montana 3400RL,680 Watts Solar,4xT-105 Trojans,GP-ISW2000-12 Inverter,Trimetric 2020, EMSHW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 3500 LTZ Duramax 4x4 CC Dually, Banks Speed Brake
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08-27-2014, 08:47 PM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Lenny ... yes it is. I just hadn't put the partition back on when I snapped the photo as I wanted to let it sit overnight to check for any leaks. When I winterize, all I have to do is remove the filter which I trash at the end of the season anyway, replace the bowl, and blow out the system.
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08-28-2014, 06:00 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Paola
Posts: 5,739
M.O.C. #4961
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Nice job. Thanks for the information I have been wanting to do that just did not know where to mount it.
__________________
Dennis & Linda Ward
Paola, Kansas
Montana 3735MK Legacy Edition
1200 watts of Solar
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08-28-2014, 08:38 AM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 894
M.O.C. #14417
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You sure have been a busy project guy looking at your basement Kansas..lol. So, another question as looks like in your picture you have a water pressure regulator hooked up at your city water inlet. Did you have to support it so as not to put too much strain on the inlet and what make regulator is it?
__________________
Lenny and Ros
2012 Montana 3400RL,680 Watts Solar,4xT-105 Trojans,GP-ISW2000-12 Inverter,Trimetric 2020, EMSHW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 3500 LTZ Duramax 4x4 CC Dually, Banks Speed Brake
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08-28-2014, 09:43 AM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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It's a Watts adjustable regulator made for a stick house installation. I got it at Lowes along with the hose fittings to make it work as well as the gauge. It flows way more than the garden hose RV regulators. Yes I did make an aluminum L bracket to support the regulator. It's fastened to the convenience center wall. You can just make it out under the inlet fitting on the regulator. The 90 degree drop for the hose connection was a Wally World item I got a few years back.
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