Tire Experience

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by rohrmann

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire-selector.aspx

They are trailer tires ONLY, but are rated LT, which gives them their 75 MPH speed rating. They do not have a traction tread that you would see on a car or truck tire, so would be very dangerous on anything other than trailers.

Good link!

[DQDick]

If you just look at the tread pattern, or lack there of, a reasonable person wouldn't even think of putting them on a truck. However, when you look at some of the tread on tires I've seen on the road in West Texas or Arizona, maybe a 614 wouldn't be a bad option

[whutfles]

http://www.trailertiresandwheels.com/17.5-radial-tires
http://www.Trailertiresandwheels.com...aluminum-wheel

UPDATE; I placed the order today for 4 tires and 4 rims 215/75R-17.5. Should be here Mon or Tue. Have to drive 20 miles to Fedex terminal. Just in time for a short trip in mid May. Goodyear air pressure chart says use 95 psi if loaded to around 3950 lbs. When I placed the order they recommended no less than 110 lbs based on their experience. They said I would defeat the purpose of running this tire with less than 110 lbs. The link to the tires and rims is pasted above. You have to page down on the tire link to the G114's.

Bill Hutfles

[whutfles]

UPDATE: Picked up tires/rims at FedEx yesterday shrink-wrapped on a pallet. Everything arrived OK. Tires were aired 125-130 lbs. Date codes on 3 tires were 8th week of 2015 and one was 5th week of 2015. 90 lb tires are considerably heavier than 60 lb tires/rims. The tread on the tires and the heft and finish of the rims is very impressivbe. Included instruction sheet emphasized torqueing lug nuts to 100 ft lbs on 1/2" studs, 120 ft lbs on 9/16 studs and on the other side of the sheet it had written "Torque to 150 ft lbs" with "17.5 H.D." circled. This was a little confusing so I called TrailerTiresandWheels and he said the 150 ft lbs was for 5/8ths. lug studs. He said if I was torqueing to 120 ft lbs that I probably had 9/16" studs. So I was a little worried as I went to the camper. I removed an old lug nut and the new one fit. Removed an old wheel and the new wheel fit. Looked like I didn't have as much exposed lug nut with the new wheel on so I removed a lug nut from an old wheel on the other axle, inserted a screw driver and measured 3/4" exposed stud. It was the same on the new wheel. The new wheel is a little thicker so the exposed stud appears shorter but it's because of the recess. The lug nuts do require a different size socket than my old nuts. I think the new ones were 7/8".

The center hub caps were identical in width and fit to my old ones except the new ones have a knockout in the center if you want to run with the knockout removed so you can access your grease zerk on the hub. I left the knockouts in and they do fit over the hub. In fact, my old hub covers fit in the new wheels and v.v.

I removed a little air down to 115 lbs. May even go down to 110 lbs.

I've included a couple pictures of the new wheels on the camper and the 4 new tires setting on the truck. If the link allows you to scroll thru the pictures, there are 4-5 pics of the old GY Marathon with the exposed cable protruding from the tread and the Montana spoked rim that I replaced. The other old camper door pics are from a previous RV unrelated to this. Will take it out in a few weeks and see how it tows. And when I get it out of storage will take a pic of the truck and RV with the new wheels. So far, am pleased with the replacement rims and tires and ready for some good trips. Thanks to all who helped me with my decision.

http://s145.photobucket.com/user/wbj...library/Camper

Bill Hutfles

[whutfles]

UPDATE: I put the 4 old tires and rims in storage. Will probably try to sell the tires. If I eventually traded for a new RV, I would swap my new 215/75R-17.5 rims and G114 tires for whatever was on the new RV. The only reason I can think of holding onto these old tires and rims is if I was to get rid of this RV before I got a new one and then I would just swap the tires and rims and keep the new ones. Can anyone think of any reason to keep these old rims?

Also, what's best for the old tires in storage - reduce them to some air, no air, 50 lbs, what do you think? I'm thinking some air is better to keep them from loosing their seal.

Bill Hutfles

[CalandLinda]

There has been a lot of talk in this thread about axle sizes.

The axle manufacturer’s certification tag on the axle may not be the trailer’s official axle load capacity. All RV trailer manufacturers have the authority to change the axle manufacturers load capacity to something less than their tag reflects. It’s all part of the trailer certification process.

In the reference below you will find a Keystone trailer certification label and tire and load information label. Note that the 7000# axles have been de-rated to 6750#. Keystone must do that when using any of the ST235/80R16E tires as OEM. So if you have a trailer with GAWR 7000# on it’s certification label and OEM ST235/80R16E tires, Keystone was required to inform you in writing which ST235/80R16E tires they used as OEM (by load capacity). If they did not do that you should inform them of the error. ST235/80R16E tires rated at 3420# (Goodyear, Maxxis etc..) do not qualify for fitment on 7000# axles and are considered a safety violation by NHTSA.

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=22027

Cal

[whutfles]

Well, my Marathons were rated at 3420 lbs which would be 6840 lbs per axle, with only 6000 lb axles so something else must be the weak link like 1/2" hub studs or the 15,500 lb max pin box, or the frame or something. But I'm not trying to increase my load carrying capacity. I'm just trying to stop the tires from failing.

Bill Hutfles

[PSFORD99]

quote:Originally posted by whutfles

Well, my Marathons were rated at 3420 lbs which would be 6840 lbs per axle, with only 6000 lb axles so something else must be the weak link like 1/2" hub studs or the 15,500 lb max pin box, or the frame or something. But I'm not trying to increase my load carrying capacity. I'm just trying to stop the tires from failing.

Bill Hutfles

Then you should of went with the Sailun S637. can't believe the blind eye this forum has for the Sailun tires. Didn't read all of your thread, but not one mention of Sailun. I'm surprised as knowledgeable as some seem to be ,the lack of knowledge about tires. Your fifth wheel with the 17.5 is total overkill .

[whutfles]

The Saulin S637 is rated the same as the Linglong tire a local tire dealer said he had been having good luck with and wanted to sell me at a very reasonable price. That's how I started this thread asking for any feedback on the Linglong's. The common reply I got was "Made in China" like my current GY Marathons was trouble. And my experience has been that for 2 years they perform well, then they give out. Others had trouble when they were new. You're the first to support the China label. So maybe overkill, but made in USA, and the fact that the profile of the GY G114's was just a little smaller in dia and width than my current ST/235-80R16's made it an easy decision where I didn't have to worry about clearance issues.

Bill Hutfles

[PSFORD99]

quote:Originally posted by whutfles

The Saulin S637 is rated the same as the Linglong tire a local tire dealer said he had been having good luck with and wanted to sell me at a very reasonable price. That's how I started this thread asking for any feedback on the Linglong's. The common reply I got was "Made in China" like my current GY Marathons was trouble. And my experience has been that for 2 years they perform well, then they give out. Others had trouble when they were new. You're the first to support the China label. So maybe overkill, but made in USA, and the fact that the profile of the GY G114's was just a little smaller in dia and width than my current ST/235-80R16's made it an easy decision where I didn't have to worry about clearance issues.

Bill Hutfles

Clearance issues ????

Here is the deal with Sailun tires, that some don't understand. Yes the Sailun tire is made in china, BUT they meet the ISO certification of TS16949 standards that a company has to meet to produce a quality recognized product, and to compete globally.

Sailun is getting better reviews then Goodyear has ever had. I want a quality tire the same as anyone, but I am not going to let a company gouge me for a product they have to charge outrageous prices to cover damage claims. I do wish Sailun was a US product, but we buy many items not produced in the US . Its unfortunate you brought up" I support the china label", when knowingly or otherwise we do it quite often.

[whutfles]

Took it out for a 400 mile test last week with the new G114's. Torqued the lugs at 25, 50 and 100 miles. Finally stayed tight. I ran 110 psi It seemed like a smoother ride with less bumps. But when I did feel the bumps like on those concrete joints, they were a little more intense. It was raining a lot so didn't get a picture of the unit, but will get that on here the next time out.

Like the tires so far.

Bill