Changing a hydraulic ram

[craigb]

Ram on living rm slide leaking at the hose connector weld. Can't see number. How do I measure to get replacement & can I just disconnect old one or is it under pressure? Thanks

[rohrmann]

If all the jacks are up, there is no pressure in the system. I have changed a hose before, and except for a little dribble of fluid, there was no pressure inside. I would place good jack stands under the frame in the front, and lift all the jacks, then you can do anything to the system you need to. I think all you need to do is, measure the diameter of the ram, and contact Lippert. You might also contact a local hydraulic shop and ask them if they can rebuild it. Lippert says it can't be rebuilt, but I've read that some have had it done at a much cheaper price than a new one.

[dieselguy]

OP said ram on slide ... not level up. Yes there will be quite a bit of pressure after deploying or retracting a slide ram depending on how long you lay on the switch ... but as you state, there is a leak, so after a bit it will bleed off. Like said either use rags or get a #5 or #6 JIC plug (don't remember size for sure) and cap off the hose. Measure the diameter and length of the cylinder barrel and the length of the cylinder rod extended as if you call Lippert ... they will ask. Or just call Keystone with your VIN and model number. There should be a repair kit to be had for these cylinders, but if appears Lippert has tight control on that and I've not personally heard of anyone rebuilding one.

[Drifty1]

In theory you should be able to work on any ram part on the hyd. system without effecting the other rams. They are separated at the manifold with solenoids that control their operation. As long as you do not operate any switches while you have the system open to the bad ram. It might be better to bump the slide switch to make sure you are not at the very end of the stroke on the cyclinder. This would give you the best chance of making sure there is no pressure on the lines. Also you could loosen the fittings on the solenoid that supply's oil to that ram. This might be a cleaner way to collect any oil. The caps and plugs should be a #6 JIC which is 3/8".

[Phil P]

Hi

Be careful follow dieselguys advice and wait until then leak has slowed and just loosen the firings slightly and watch for fluid. You will be able to tell if there is much pressure by the way the fluid comes no pressure just a little dribble a spray is under pressure just wait and catch the fluid in a bucket until it is just a dribble. The plugs dieselguy is talking about can be purchased at an auto / truck parts store and they are not very expensive. I would get 2 plugs and 2 caps without caps after disconnecting the hoses you will spill fluid out of the cylinder while working to get it out of the trailer.

Our 2009 has selector valves in the panel on the side of the trailer you can isolate the slid you are working on with these valves. If you don’t have them then wait like dieselguy says.

Please contact me I want your old cylinder so I can determine how to repair them.

Phil P

[craigb]

Should I work on it extended or retracted?

[dieselguy]

Some holes in the frame are big enough to pull the cylinder thru and some are not ... it's your call. Be sure to count the threads on the big lock nuts to get them back close when reassembling. DO NOT chinch the nuts up tight on both sides of the pusher arm, the gap between nuts is there for a reason (adjustment). The cylinder has more stroke than the slide can physically move. Point of interest ... you're looking at a couple of weeks probably in actually having a new one in hand once ordered. Most dealers don't stock them. You may be able to just have a welder place a new bead around the fitting boss on the cylinder. Be sure to have the piston and seals as far away from the weld location as possible.

[Phil P]

Hi

Good point dieselguy also don’t have the ports caped at either end just so the pressure from air expansion is relieved.

We have been repairing the welded cylinders on the new tractors now for a couple of years. They come from the factory with both ends welded and the manufacturer says they are not repairable. We have found a company to make seals for us and the cost for parts runs about $48 for even larger cylinders. We use a certified piper welder to do the welding.

Phil P