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Old 12-21-2011, 11:21 AM   #1
maximo
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X FACTOR Crossmembers

Searched and read old post on the Mor/ryde X Factor Crossmembers. Anyone lately had the X Factor system added to their trailers. I have a new 3580RL Big Sky and have it parked at my daughters ranch because of some real tight backing up that would have to be made to park the trailer at my place on a new cement pad and storage garage I am building at my location. Some of the older trailer parks also have tight places to back a 38 ft trailer in to. If you do have what kind of price did you pay and did you add two or three crossmembers?

Frank
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:38 AM   #2
Phil P
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Hi

We installed all three and wet bolts. Ours cost a good bit because the torsion load on the axels had all ready twisted the frame and we had to straighten the frame.

I would not wait to have the X factor installed. The cost isn’t a lot takes about an hour.

The wet bolts are not quite so important. The original nylon bushings are good for 10 to 15 thousand miles. Ours had been metal to metal for some time at 20 thousand.

Phil P
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:18 PM   #3
NCFischers
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I installed one cross member and the wet bolts. I would recommend both.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:30 PM   #4
tanner1070
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Installed the center XFactor. Waiting to back into a tight site to see if I should add the other two XFactors. Trailer came with the wet bolts. 2011 3580RL
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:36 PM   #5
dieselguy
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Like I mentioned in my old post this past spring ... Thought $140 was a bit steep for a piece of square tube with a plate welded on each end, so I fabbed my own for under $50. I have a shorter fiver than you, but feel the single tube on the middle Morryde spring hanger is adequate. You'll never get rid of the warped looking axles on a tight turn on solid pavement.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:54 PM   #6
8e3k0
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We installed all three last summer and would not be without them.
Gives that added support needed for the spring hangers especially when parking with sharp turns. With the structure now all axle components work together.
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:12 PM   #7
Phil P
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Hi

Our frame was twisted at the passenger side center and front spring hangar. I would recommend putting all three cross members in.

Phil P
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy

Like I mentioned in my old post this past spring ... Thought $140 was a bit steep for a piece of square tube with a plate welded on each end, so I fabbed my own for under $50. I have a shorter fiver than you, but feel the single tube on the middle Morryde spring hanger is adequate. You'll never get rid of the warped looking axles on a tight turn on solid pavement.
X-2
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:29 AM   #9
sailer
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I installed 1 X member . added wet bolts and added the shakels be welded closed on the rear of the rear unit and the front of the ft unit, then we added a brace to that up to the frame of about 4" so now if a wet bolts goes you don't have what happened to richfaa 2 yrs ago...sailer
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Old 12-25-2011, 04:22 PM   #10
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When you are a retired steel fabricator, and still have the contacts with your company that you spent 42 years with, the tube ,and plate come real cheap, cost me the price of the installation bolts, the tube ,and plates are just rem , and go in the scrap trailer. I fabricated all three of them, and installed with the wet bolts. IMO the best thing you can do for your suspension, and frame.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:59 AM   #11
stiles watson
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I fabricated and installed the center X-brace. Later, when the rear, street side spring hanger broke off the frame for the second time, I took it to a welding shop. They reinforced the frame on both sides, welded on a new spring bracket, and fabricated/installed an X-bar at the rear spring bracket.

It broke the second time because of a faulty weld when repaired the first time. The welder ran a bead on top of one side of the bracket, but did not penetrate the the metal.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sailer

I installed 1 X member . added wet bolts and added the shakels be welded closed on the rear of the rear unit and the front of the ft unit, then we added a brace to that up to the frame of about 4" so now if a wet bolts goes you don't have what happened to richfaa 2 yrs ago...sailer
What happened to richfaa (me) two years ago was that the bolts on our rear shakles worked loose the axle shifted and caused much damage, new tires and lost time. The OEM suspension on our 06 3400 was totally inadequate and we spent 2500.00 plus replacing it with the Mor Ryde IS system.
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:46 AM   #13
donr827
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I am looking at buying a 2012 Montana. Is this a problem that has been solved in newer model years? Thanks
Don
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:27 PM   #14
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donr827: I don't know if you would characterize this as a problem to be solved. The frames are built to Keystones specs without the XFactor aftermarket beams. Frames under Forest River and KZ RV's for example are very similar in construction. They too do not come with any cross beams. Granted there are several of us on the MOC that have had issues with the spring hangars ... but of the thousands of units built and sold by Keystone it's really hard to say what percentage have the spring hangars twist. It's just natural for people to report the failure of items as opposed to reporting nothing happening. I didn't have any twist, but elected to fab my own version of the XFactor and install it. Do what gives you peace of mind.
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:51 AM   #15
Buckeye Mike
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 8e3k0

We installed all three last summer and would not be without them.
Gives that added support needed for the spring hangers especially when parking with sharp turns. With the structure now all axle components work together.
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:57 AM   #16
Buckeye Mike
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Has anybody installed the x-factor from the factory themselves on a 3400RL? I purchesed all 3 sets on line from Tweetys.Looks like you have to reroute the rear gray water drain pipe.If not what keeps the front x-factor from breaking the drain. Thanks for any info and advice you can provide. Mike
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:34 AM   #17
PSFORD99
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Buckeye Mike

Has anybody installed the x-factor from the factory themselves on a 3400RL? I purchesed all 3 sets on line from Tweetys.Looks like you have to reroute the rear gray water drain pipe.If not what keeps the front x-factor from breaking the drain. Thanks for any info and advice you can provide. Mike
The braces cleared everything on my 2008 3400RL. I too installed all three. I too thought the drain line would be in the road just looking at it, but the brace cleared, but it was close. Had the braces on for several thousand miles with no issues. The brace does not move when installed, if it clears the pipes all is good. I would think if they were touching it would not hurt anything, more support for the pipe then anything.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:02 PM   #18
Buckeye Mike
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Finally got around to installingthe x-factors. PSFORD99,you were right there's no clearence between the drain and the front brace.I did cuta short piece of fuel line hose and put between the drain line. Hope it is worth it.Does anyone remeber what Mor/yde charged for the x-factor at the fall rally? I paid $429 on line from Tweety's RV Parts.Just wondering how bad I got took. Buckeye Mike
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:35 AM   #19
bighornram
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by PSFORD99

When you are a retired steel fabricator, and still have the contacts with your company that you spent 42 years with, the tube ,and plate come real cheap, cost me the price of the installation bolts, the tube ,and plates are just rem , and go in the scrap trailer. I fabricated all three of them, and installed with the wet bolts. IMO the best thing you can do for your suspension, and frame.
Can someone post a picture of their X-factor crossmembers? I'd like to build them but don't have an "example" to model after.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:01 PM   #20
dieselguy
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bighornram: Here's a photo of what I fabbed up ... 2.5 square tube / 1/4" endplates and gusset (wirefeed welded) I guess all 3 cross beams give extra peace of mind, but I think the center cross beam is the most important and adequate. I don't remember the exact bolt length, but they were slightly longer than the ones that came off the Mor Ryde. New locknuts were also used. Just a side note ... while you're under there if there are extremely deep cracks (better than 3/4" deep) in the Mor Ryde rubber mount, they should be replaced.
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