Is there a "RESET" for a 15K A/C unit?

[Montana_1240]

Well, now that it’s hot and extremely humid here in southern Alabama, we’re experiencing a cooling problem. I searched the forum, but didn’t see the answer I was hoping for. I even called Dometic, but the girl could only tell me what I could find on their website.

While going through the thread about the Comfort Control Center replacing the remote controlled thermostat, I noticed several comments about doing a “RESET.” I believe it was referring to resetting the new CCC thermostat.

What’s happening in our unit is the A/C has been getting worse and worse at cooling over the past week or so. Used to be, the thing would run for a while, cool the unit down, and then turn off until the set temp was reached, and it’d cycle through again…Like normal. This week, it’s been running almost constantly.

Since it’s been over 95 every day, I had been keeping the thermostat set to a lower than normal temperature, (even to the extent of requiring blankets while in bed,) so it’d take longer for the house to heat up during the daytime. Last night was the topper. Rather than blowing rather cold, and cycling through during the night, the temperature of the vents’ air was no cooler than the room air’s temp.

I noticed that there is hardly any water dripping out of the gutter, now. It had worn a hole in the dirt and left noting but gravel at that drip point over the past couple of months.

I also don’t really feel or hear the compressor starting up. Used to be, (or so it seemed,) when the unit would kick on, (especially when first turned on,) I’d hear the fan start, and then feel and hear the compressor start. Now it’s all just one feel and sound.

So, what I was wondering is if there’s something I can do, (maybe at/in the A/C’s control box under the foam filter’s plastic cover piece,) to do a sort of “reset” to see if doing it would help get the A/C back into normal operating mode.

I’ve so far turned it off for a while, and reset the breaker. None of which helped. There’s only a little dust in the ducting. Can’t see enough on the inlet inside the inside cover to cause any problem…Besides, if that were the case, I believe it’d be freezing up with too little air flowing. And that’s not been indicated at the thermostat. Nor is the little bit of water running off indicative of anything like that.

I’ve got a week to go before I have to break camp and bring it in to Camping World, since Dometic has no mobile service techs around here, and no local A/C shops are Dometic-approved. I do so hope there’s a way to avoid having to move this thing, if even for a day. But to get cool, I will do whatever it takes.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

[campbud]

Steve last weekend we ran our air on auto and noticed that it just was not cooling like we thought it should. Then I remember reading were someone on here said to run it on high in hot humid weather, so that is what I did. It was cool but it ran constantly too. We had record temps of 95 here last weekend. This weekend is to be cooler so we will see how it does.

[Montana_1240]

Campbud,

I’ve always got it on high speed. We’re from Alaska, and like all the cool air we can get. We’ve only set it to low speed a couple of times in the course of the last year and a half. (Plus, this is one equipped with that remote control so many people find offensive. When the sensor says it’s frosted up, the green LED on the thermostat flashes.)

I’ve had it freeze up a couple of times in the spring, when it’s humid, but not all that hot. Right now, it’s mid to upper 90s, and very humid. And it’s not flashing.

As I was saying, it’s been turned off, (while I noted the model and serial number to seek help,) and that was for longer than enough time for any frost to dissipate. And still there is not much water dripping at the gutter. If it was iced up, I’m guessing the melt at 90+ would cause at least a trickle of water.

I’m fairly certain that the compressor isn’t coming on. It just doesn’t feel the way it used to up until about a week ago.

Thanks, though.

Maybe someone knows of something I can push or maybe even KICK, up on the roof, after taking the cover off?

Steve

[G McCall]

I too have learned to run the AC only on high, atleast at night and to keep the Unit from freezing up.
However you say your unit is blowing hard, just not cool air. My only thoughts is that may be a problem with the Unit or thermostat. I am no AC man so I will not guess.

[lawrenceb42106]

There are several things you might be able to check. Turn the breaker off before checking the following; Check to see if you see any burnt wires in the panel by the filter in the living area. Check connectors in the panel something maybe loose. Check the coils on the roof to see if they are dirty. That can cause the compressor to shut down due to getting too hot. Remove to cover on top of the roof. Feel the compressor and if it is real hot it may be off on thermal overload. If so you could shut the unit off for several hours to cool down to let it reset, Remove the thermal cover check and see if by chance you may have a wire burned off. Turn the power on to check these: If you have a clamp on amp meter you could check and see if it is drawing any amps. Also you could take a meter to see if you are getting any power to the compressor. If it has been slowly losing. temp it could be low on freon. Also Could also be something in the remote operations. I'm not familiar with that type of system. We have the old set up. Hope this helps you check a few things. Past experience working on these systems for several years @ 90% are electrical problems. If I can answer any more questions feel free to ask.

Larry

[Montana_1240]

G McCall,

I was wondering if that might be the problem, until I noted that some water is dripping from the unit, at the gutter. That makes me think the compressor is running a bit. Just not as fully as usual, as I can’t feel or really hear it.

I did try to change the situation a bit, though. I turned it off from the remote, and pushed the “COOL” button on the thermostat to make it run manually. All that proved no change, though.

Thankfully, the temperature, outside and in, is dropping. Mother Nature to the rescue for another evening.

Steve

[Montana_1240]

Larry,

All good ideas. In fact, when it dawns, I will do just that. I’ve had the cover off the control box in the A/C’s intake, before. There’s a circuit board in there. So maybe, after checking the outside-the-box connections, I’ll make sure those are solid, inside. Could be that one of the power wires that operates the compressor isn’t making a solid contact.

I’m waiting until morning to go up top because it’s a literal oven out there, still. But that’s a great idea. I did go to Wally World to pick up a cheap shop-vac, today, just to reach up inside the unit to remove the minimal amount of dust I can see from inside the plastic cover.

I can borrow a clamp-on ammeter from the RV park staff. Did that this morning to get a solid read on voltage…Can’t recall just where I packed away my digital multimeter.

During all the up top checking, the unit will have been off for a while. I’ll make sure I leave it off for a while longer, as well. Can’t hurt.

Dometic and Camping World both said these units cannot have coolant added. Unlike vehicular units, these are totally sealed. Though I’m guessing that some industrious A/C mechanics have adapted fitting to recharge them. I just don’t want to blow my warranty. Speaking of which, this failure made me buy a second three-year contract through Dometic.

What you said about the problems being electrical brings me to think seriously about installing that CCC I’ve been hanging onto for a few months, now. That would replace the control box inside the ceiling opening, as well as the thermostat. Which would replace everything but the actual unit’s electronics. I would have done this before, had the remote thermostat really been a problem for me, but I just couldn’t see messing with a working unit. Now would likely be a good time to git ‘er done!

Now…Just what am I facing in removing the cover, up top? Are there screws? Clips? Some other form of hold-downs for that clamshell cover? Never messed with it, beyond peeking in the holes to make sure it looked fairly clean. At least if I take a look at it, I might be one step ahead of the CW guy(s) who will poke around it next Wednesday!

And should I have a water hose up there, or would that threaten to drip into the fiver?

Steve

[lawrenceb42106]

Steve

If I remember right it has several Philip head screws holding the cover on.May want to take a square head drive to be sure. The cover on the evaporator coil has 1/4 nut driver screws. As for getting water down below if you are careful it should be no problem. I always cover the motor with a plastic bag to keep it dry when cleaning the coils. you can clean the coils with awsome or 409.Just be careful with the water around electrical stuff. I have installed charging valves on several units, so they can be recharged. reason for no valves is cost to factory. $4.50 for valves.
[Speaking of which, this failure made me buy a second three-year contract through Dometic.] If serious let them do the work.

Larry

[Montana_1240]

Larry,

Thanks for the expertise. I’ll bring my multi-tipped screwdriver and a small set of sockets, along with a brush. If it needs more thorough cleaning, I’ll get the hose out.

I’ll make sure that power’s off the unit even before removing the cover. That will add time to its having to be powered off, without me having to sit in a hothouse waiting for time to pass.

I’ve been looking at info about getting a second A/C for the prepped bedroom vent hole. Some guy hates Duo-Therm, and made it clear that Coleman is the way to go from his perspective.

I do like the idea of having a heating strip in that unit, too. I love sleeping in the cool, but like to have it warmed up when it’s time for a shower! Both brands come with the heat option. I just can't seem to find a website for the Coleman line, though....

Steve

[Montana_1240]

Larry, and All,

The story, so far….

I took out the control box, opened it up, and found no burned parts, or even any apparent evidence of excess heat.

I undid the connectors to the box, tightened all wire nuts that connected the box, and used the opportunity to brush the little bit of dust adhering to the coils inside the A/C.

After it was all connected, again, I set the breaker on, and tried the A/C. It seemed to be cooling the way I remembered it used to. I even took our cheap window thermometer and hung it on the Quick-Cool vent, and it registered a nice 55 degrees. (No telling what the tolerance was, but that was at least twenty degrees cooler than room air, according to both that thermometer and the temp displayed by “ROOM” on the remote control.)

After it ran a few minutes, I immediately noticed the water dripping off the gutter, again.

It’s been a couple of hours, the Monty’s cooling off, and the water’s still dripping from the gutter. I’ll see how it is by evening, and if need be, get up onto the roof, tomorrow, and see what else I can disturb.

I’m hoping this is it. I really don’t want to take this down to Camping World if I can avoid it.

I’m going to hold off installing the CCC and new control box, just in case something on the main A/C might be wrong, and might burn out the new box.

Thanks, all. I’ll be adding any new developments as they occur.

Steve

[Montana_1240]

As of yesterday, the A/C has been performing admirably. We went through a 93 degree day without a hassle, and it’s still working this evening!

It seems that undoing the connections and redoing them did the trick.

I’ve cancelled my appointment to CW, and can relax until it’s time to head out of here on our own schedule.

Whew!
Steve