Solar Pannels - Montana Owners Club

7.3Ford · 02-11-2010, 03:58 PM

Hi folks,

Did anyone ever post pictures of their Solar installation? Please paste the URL if they are here and I didn't fine them.

I am looking adding The following Solar panel Uni-solar 68 Watt Panels They have easy peel and stick application, and are approved for EPDM rubber roof. They have no glass in them, and can be walked with the right shoes, just need to be careful.

Also looking at Samlex 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter with built-in transfer switch (Model ST2000-112) Samlex 200W Pure Sine Inverter. The only thing I don't know here is the Transfer Switch is rated at 35A and the Monty has 50A feed into power distribution panel. Has any one wire Inverts into they panel please speak up. It is not often we camp at sites with 50A service, the the unit is protected with 35A breaker, so maybe it isn't an issue, just need to do a little power management.

Jolu · 02-11-2010, 04:41 PM

7.3Ford,
I have a 2000watt Xantrex with a 30Amp pass through switch that I am about to install. My plan is to install a 30Amp breaker in the main panel to supply the power to the inverter AC in. The AC from the inverter out will feed a sub panel for the three wall circuits I want.

HamRad · 02-11-2010, 05:04 PM

7.3Ford,
You'll have to jump on WorkerB to get some pictures regarding the solar panel install. I was parked right next to John and watched the install. It went very well and relatively quickly. I think it was only a couple of days total. Of course that does not include John having to buy and install another inverter after he inadvertently let all the "smoke" out of the first one!

Good luck with your solar adventure.

HamRad

scattershot · 02-12-2010, 04:58 AM

I would personally be leery of any "peel and stick" application for a roof mounted solar panel. Over time, I think the adhesive would fail, and usually going down the road at 70mph.

I saw some at Quartzsite this year, and they had changed the mounting to screws spaced at 8" or so all around the panel.

FWIW, I had a Kyocera 135w panel installed this year, and the cost of the panel alone was $510.00. If you're a do it yourselfer, that's not much more money for a permanent installation.

Good luck, I'm sold on solar.

ols1932 · 02-12-2010, 06:16 AM

Personally, I would not use the peel and stick application. I would add screws. There is too much wind resistance going down the road and it will go under the panels. After a short while, the panels will lift from the roof. I don't have personal experience in this but have a friend who said his peel and stick panels lifted after three months.

Orv

gojodo · 02-14-2010, 02:20 AM

I agree with Orv, use something more to secure whatever panels you choose to the roof. I use four 100W 24Amp solar panels, which are all screwed into the roof. If you apply the screws correctly there is no problem with leakage and the panels will be secured. If you want to install these yourself you should look at the following web page which gives detailed and accurate information about the entire system. Jack Mayer is the author of this site and I know he has helped me numerous times to understand this process. Here is his web page: http://jmayer6.tripod.com/id26.html Good luck.

scattershot · 02-14-2010, 08:47 AM

gojodo, where did you find 24 amp solar panels? With four of them, you could probably run an arc welder!

gojodo · 02-15-2010, 01:09 AM

Opps! That's 24 Volts, not amps, sorry. These are great panels however. The specs are 44 cells, VOC = 27.0 Volts; Vpm =21.5 Volts; Isc = 4.88 amps; Lpm = 4.54 amps; length 57.25" Width 21.25". You can see these at http://www.amsolar.com/100html. I use these with a 2000 Watt Magnum Sine Wave inverter with charger, a Blue Sky solar charge controller, and six 6-volt batteries. Powers everything except air conditioner.

scattershot · 02-15-2010, 04:05 AM

Looks like a great setup, thanks.

7.3Ford · 02-15-2010, 01:51 PM

Couple of questions for folks who have Solar Panels on there Monty's. Where did you run the wires down? If you ran 24V panels, what did you use to drop the voltage down to 12V? Do you have any pictures of the installation you can share?

ols1932 · 02-15-2010, 03:25 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by 7.3Ford

Couple of questions for folks who have Solar Panels on there Monty's. Where did you run the wires down? If you ran 24V panels, what did you use to drop the voltage down to 12V? Do you have any pictures of the installation you can share?

I ran the wires for ours down through the refrigerator vent and from the back of the reefer, through the wall into the basement and into the front battery compartment where our inverter is installed. We have a controller that is mounted on the wall next to the reefer and it controls the charging of the batteries. I have too much "junk" in the way to get a good picture for you. I'm sure there are some out there who have nice neat installations that will be more than happy to provide you with pictures. Every model of Montana has a different layout so it would be nice if you could actually look at some installations.

Orv

gojodo · 02-16-2010, 12:01 AM

Sorry, I don't have any photos either and my Monty is currently under 10" of snow. I need to get out of here! Anyway, we have a 3075RL where there is an air vent to the roof over the door side basement. I cut into the vent pipe in the basement and removed a 5" section. Then ran my wires from the roof down the inside of the pipe and out the opening I just cut. Then I threaded a "T" with a reducer on one end so I could caulk the wire as it came through the end of the T. Once I had threaded enough wire to reach my controller (an instrument you need to convert variable voltage from the panels to a consistent 12V to the battery bank) I then permanently installed the T with PVC Glue. There may be other ways to do this but this is one option. Basically to have an effective solar system you will need 1) the panels 2) a controller (as mentioned)3) a battery bank 4) an inverter and 5) an instument panel (comes with the controller and inverter). I have seen good pictures of this wiring process from someone on this site so hopefully they will post them again. You might use the Search feature for solar wiring. Good luck. John

scattershot · 02-16-2010, 11:50 AM

I had my system professionally installed, but the installer ran the wires just like ols1932. We had them mount the controller in the blank space above the refrigerator. If you do it yourself, I don't think it would be difficult, but I would go with heavy gauge wire in case you want to add another panel later.

7.3Ford · 02-16-2010, 06:48 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by gojodo

Anyway, we have a 3075RL where there is an air vent to the roof over the door side basement. I cut into the vent pipe in the basement and removed a 5" section. Then ran my wires from the roof down the inside of the pipe and out the opening I just cut. Then I threaded a "T" with a reducer on one end so I could caulk the wire as it came through the end of the T.

This was my current thinking also, since it is just a vent for the plumbing. I read the information on the site you posted, and that had some good ideas. As a result I think I am going with OutBack FLEXmax 80 MPPT Charging Controller, which seems to be the most versatile controller out there, and will handle anything that will fit on the roof. Kyocera panels appear to be the most bang for the buck at this time, and there is a local store I can pick them up at. I am thinking of four 205-210 Watt panels, wire them in series (about 96 volts), which will use smaller wire and give the OutBack the most to work with on less than perfect days.

I got a new 50A Transfer Switch coming I picked up on eBay (Iota ITS-50R), so I am going with Samlex SK2000-112 (2000 Watt) Pure Sine Inverter.

After looking at the mounting being used, I order two sheets of .090 T6 Aluminum (12"x24"). I use to be Airplane Mechanic, so I figured I can make the brackets, and save some money.

I also found a place about 1 hour 30 minutes away for Golf Cart Batteries http://bradsgolfcars.com/batteries.htm , which seem to have the best price on Trojan T-105 6-volt Golf Car Battery, and don't have to pay shipping (just bloody tax).

gojodo · 02-16-2010, 11:35 PM

Good luck, it sounds like you have a good system in mind. I know I went with AMSolar 100's which only generate 4.68amps vs 6.17amps from the Kyocera 205 but they weigh half as much and they are only 21" wide vs. 39" for Kyocera. Something to consider.

7.3Ford · 02-17-2010, 08:09 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by gojodo

Good luck, it sounds like you have a good system in mind. I know I went with AMSolar 100's which only generate 4.68amps vs 6.17amps from the Kyocera 205 but they weigh half as much and they are only 21" wide vs. 39" for Kyocera. Something to consider.

Ya, that is a concern I have to... need to be able to get around them so I can climb up and clean of the slides before closing up... Guess that is why I was looking for some pictures of where other Monty owners put there panels. Sound like WorkerB put 6 up there, but no one said what size or placements. Weight per watt is about the same, since you are getting twice the watts too. Could go with two Kyocera 205 and get the same output as four 100's.

I am leaning toward six T105 batteries. There are higher amp hours batteries, but weight works out to about the same per amp hour. My thinking is if one battery goes bad, it will be cheaper to replace. The other issue I am working thru, is looks like battery containment pans are for four T105 size, haven't seen any for six, but still looking.

gojodo · 02-17-2010, 11:14 PM

I don't think two 205's are equivalent to 4 100's when you're considering 36cells vs. 44cells. Look at the specs. If you are looking at 6 T105 Batteries I think they are rated at around 400 Amp Hours, which you would then match up to the panel capacity. You can add extra panel capacity for those cloudy days but again you need to consider the weight and real benefit. I personally would try to match the output of the panels to the capacity of the battery bank. Good Luck. John

ols1932 · 02-18-2010, 02:29 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by 7.3Ford
I am thinking of four 205-210 Watt panels, wire them in series (about 96 volts), which will use smaller wire and give the OutBack the most to work with on less than perfect days.

Did you truly mean to say you will wire them in series? Did yo mean to say "in parallell"?

Orv

7.3Ford · 02-18-2010, 04:55 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by ols1932
Did you truly mean to say you will wire them in series? Did yo mean to say "in parallel"?

Nop series. If I end up with more than 4 panels (ie six 24v), then would wire them in as both series and parallel (ie 2 sets in parallel of three in series). They way I under stand it, with MPPT controllers (Outback FLEXmax at least), you want a high voltage, so the MPPT control has more to work with to maintain the 12V output and max current output on less than optimum days. The higher voltage also allows less voltage drop and less current, so you can use smaller wire.

If I am reading thing wrong, please straiten me out.

7.3Ford · 02-18-2010, 05:21 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by gojodo

I don't think two 205's are equivalent to 4 100's when you're considering 36cells vs. 44cells. Look at the specs. If you are looking at 6 T105 Batteries I think they are rated at around 400 Amp Hours, which you would then match up to the panel capacity. You can add extra panel capacity for those cloudy days but again you need to consider the weight and real benefit. I personally would try to match the output of the panels to the capacity of the battery bank.

The Trojan T-105 batteries are 225AH each, so wired series/parallel should give me 675AH at 12v. I guess the question I really to be asking is what type of mounting is everyone using, (fix flat, or tilting) and with typical camping sites how much lost does every one see at the average campsite? Also I don't follow what the deal is with 36 vs 44 cells? Panel is rated in watts at 12v, 24v, etc. so why do I care the internal makeup? Please explain, I have a good understanding of electrical stuff, but solar is new to me. You have all been very helpful, and I am learning lots.

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