Cable support under slide fix EDIT with pic - Montana Owners Club

boylanag · 06-09-2009, 01:16 PM

The cable support strap under the large slide was breaking and I was going to take the recommendation of others on this forum and put a door hinge on it to allow it to continue flexing without breaking. Well, I never got to it and it finally broke during this latest journey. The cables and strap hung down when the slide was retracted and I was afraid that more damage was going to occur when moving. I duct taped it up before every move, every time we brought the slide in. Bill Moll, admoll, told me his did this too and he drilled holes in the plastic and used plastic zip ties and it worked great. I am not the handiest person around but today I drilled and inserted five zip ties and now all is well. This is a quick and easy fix and should last longer than the original set-up did. Thanks, Bill! There were five holes on the portion of the plastic strap that remained attached to the slide so I just drilled 5 holes in the plastic flap and loosely tied it up.

Trailer Trash 2 · 06-09-2009, 01:45 PM

There use to be a detailed picture of the repair of that wire harness by using a hinge I dont know what happened to the picture it used to be in the home page section I guess it was removed.
meybe there will be another out there that will remember it better than I.

boylanag · 06-09-2009, 01:49 PM

Mine was broke so that there was no place to put the hinge so this way worked out great.

Art-n-Marge · 06-09-2009, 07:15 PM

My 3500RL broke 3 out of four of these and the fourth was starting to tear. They were all replaced free of charge.

The next time I saw this problem occur I was going to use the hinge fix, but the tie wrap fix sounds a lot easier to implement and does seem to supply the necessary flexibility. I'll have to remember this one.

Art-n-Marge · 06-10-2009, 08:54 PM

And thanks for finding the picture and putting it back.

TLightning · 06-11-2009, 09:12 AM

Both my breaks looked like that...I trimmed the edges and used hinges.

LonnieB · 06-11-2009, 04:51 PM

I am leaving for Eagle Nest, NM, where my Montana is patiently awaiting my return, tommorow night. I will take some pics of my hinge fix and get them posted. My plastic "POC" also broke in the same place yours did.
I am NOT in any way, saying the zip ties won't work, they are actually a pretty ingenious "quick fix". However, the hinge is permanent and looks COOL

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Art-n-Marge · 06-11-2009, 08:58 PM

Okay, okay, LonnieB and Trailer Trash - admittedly the tie wrap fix can be considered a "kludge" (rhymes with luge) or even a Rube Goldberg (engineer-speak for a fix that is way more complicated than it should be and therefore should be deemed temporary or useless).

Since "The Hinge" is the best long-term fix I've read about, when you post your picture, what size hinge did you use? Maybe I'll head off the expected failure and just go out and buy four hinges and take care of this before my next outing.

Desert RVer · 06-14-2009, 07:14 PM

Others have had a section of belting attached at the break. That seems to work as well.

LonnieB · 06-20-2009, 05:21 AM

Sorry it took so long to get these pictures posted, I've been a little busy

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boylanag, mine was broke of in the same place yours is. I just removed the piece that was screwed to the metal, cut the other piece square on the end and installed the hinge.

The hinge I used is "overkill" to say the least. It is stainless steel and came from Tractor Supply where my youngest son works. The bolts I used are also "overkill" and stainless steel. A regular door hinge would probably do the job just as well.

jwedell · 06-20-2009, 09:31 AM

The hinge looks like a good idea. However they must be checked and lubricated every so often. I've heard of hinges rusting tight and creating more of a problem. I took a heavy piece of rubber 4" X 8" and bolted it on in the same way and haven't had any problems since. I even changed all of them before they broke.

HamRad · 06-20-2009, 11:03 AM

The stainless steel should take a lot longer to rust. Lonnie I don't think there is any such thing as 'overkill'. Nice job and nice pictures.

HamRad

jjackflash · 06-20-2009, 12:09 PM

Would galvanized gate hinges be better as far as weather goes?
Jack

Trailer Trash 2 · 06-20-2009, 01:26 PM

WD 40 or LPS #3 for the hinge it will last a long time.

Art-n-Marge · 06-20-2009, 05:49 PM

LonnieB,

Very Nice. You might mention the hinge job you used might be overkill, but if you got it done, it sure doesn't look like you will have any more problems.

A few questions - Are some of the bolts self-tapping or is it all nuts/bolts/washers at all points? Did you use lock washers on the opposing side of fasteners?

LonnieB · 06-21-2009, 11:31 AM

Quote:

quote:The hinge looks like a good idea. However they must be checked and lubricated every so often. I've heard of hinges rusting tight and creating more of a problem. I took a heavy piece of rubber 4" X 8" and bolted it on in the same way and haven't had any problems since. I even changed all of them before they broke.

The rubber sounds like a pretty good idea too, the belting that Desert RVer posted about does also, but I still like the hinge better.The stainless steel hinge will not rust tight and will probably never need lubrucated. Steel and even galvanized steel hinges will eventually rust or corode and will probably need lubricated.

Quote:

quote:A few questions - Are some of the bolts self-tapping or is it all nuts/bolts/washers at all points? Did you use lock washers on the opposing side of fasteners?

All the bolts are standard 1/4"x3/4"x20 tpi stainless steel. I didn't use lockwashers, instead I used standard 1/4"x20 tpi stainless steel locknuts, (the kind with the nylon insert commonly called nylock nuts) and stainless flatwashers on both sides.

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