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02-25-2016, 09:51 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,169
M.O.C. #6433
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Anode rod
The OEM anode rod in our water heater was pretty much gone in 2 yrs. I replaced it and after 5 yrs the replacement is only slightly used up. And last year began to get a bad odor from the hot water. Flushing with bleach only helped temporarily. Makes me wonder if it is doing much. From what I have found the OEM rod was magnesium. I think the replacdment I put in is zinc/aluminum.
What have y'all been putting in for replacements?
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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02-25-2016, 10:41 AM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: R
Posts: 261
M.O.C. #17922
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I have always replaced with a magnesium rod. I had watched a video years ago where they had the same results as you, where the magnesium rod lasted two years and the aluminum rod showed very little wear after one year. They began to wonder if the aluminum rod was doing anything.
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02-25-2016, 10:54 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Sioux Falls
Posts: 505
M.O.C. #14162
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I replaced mine with the magnesium rod the only time it needed it. Have never experienced an odor problem. I was told that you wanted a rod that was sure to deteriorate, if needed, and that the magnesium rod did this.
__________________
Steve & Sheryl Engels
2018 Montana 3790RD
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02-25-2016, 11:23 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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I'd stick with the magnesium rod as well ... lotsa discussion person to person as well as online about this. The Aluminum/Zinc rods just don't seem to be very sacrificial leading many to think the inside of the tank is more so taking the hit.
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02-25-2016, 02:56 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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I agree. If your not using a water softener and even then, something should be happening to the rod. Even on a home electric water heater. that smell tells you the rod is done.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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02-25-2016, 11:20 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Okeechobee
Posts: 2,150
M.O.C. #11206
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Hi
You should always use the magnesium / zinc rod.
Phil P
__________________
2009 Montana 3665RE
2009 Duramax 3500 DRW quad cab
personal web page https:// www.sallyscoffees.com
If you get a page not available then remove the "s" after HTTP
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02-26-2016, 04:35 AM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Halifax
Posts: 335
M.O.C. #9963
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I had an odor in the bath room basin sometimes. What I did was disconnect/bypassed the water lines going to the washer hook up. The odor disappeared. I know that if you do not use the washer some water will migrate up the line even if the valves remain closed and becomes stagnate.
Joe
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02-26-2016, 05:16 AM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming
Posts: 313
M.O.C. #10012
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At one of the National Rallies there was a presentation by Suburban (I think) and they stated that if the rod is not being sacrificed the tank is. I only use the Suburban rods now despite them being more expensive because I feel that I would rather spend $20 every two years than $1k for a new tank.
__________________
Steve and Diane Pena
SOB Owner
2014 F-350 Dually Diesel
Home is where we park it
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02-26-2016, 05:59 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Brandon
Posts: 3,944
M.O.C. #1034
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I would definitely replace with the magnesium/zinc rod and feel good about replacing ours long before it is probably required.
__________________
Darwin & Maureen DeBackere
Minnedosa, Manitoba, Canada
2011/3500/Silverado/4x4/DRW/Duramax
2017/3721RL/Legacy Pkg./Pressure-Pro
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02-26-2016, 11:23 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hanover
Posts: 1,471
M.O.C. #13325
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Don''t know what ours is - probably a magnesium/zinc stock one, but it's lasted three years with only minimal erosion. I completely drain the tank and flush it out every fall though. It's surprising how much 'stuff' will come out when you not just drain, but then turn on street water and let it flow. As to odors, the only ones we've ever had were from old water sitting in either the hot water or even the fresh water tanks. A little bleach solves that quite well.
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02-27-2016, 04:46 PM
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#11
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Established Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Casey
Posts: 21
M.O.C. #18091
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Magnesium has a higher driving potential (dc current) than the other metals therefore producing better protection for the tank.
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02-28-2016, 06:58 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Eugene
Posts: 1,053
M.O.C. #5091
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the last time I replaced the anode rod, I went to the aluminum rod and it hasn't worn down at all. Just ordered 2 magnesium rods for $28.49 off e-bay which beats the heck out of Camping World of $21 a piece. Don't think now that the aluminum rod was the way to go.
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02-29-2016, 07:36 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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I just replaced mine with a. Magnesium rod,, a suburban product. Package stated that on average,rods should last at least one year, and that if the mag rods don't last that long, go with an aluminum one,, that the aluminum react slower and should be used only when the mag rods do not last for a year.
__________________
Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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03-18-2016, 09:06 AM
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#14
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Newport News
Posts: 30
M.O.C. #18393
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The anode in your water heater is for corrosion control only. It's sacrificial and is consumed before any other dissimilar metals. If it's not being consumed, something else is. Zinc or Magnesium would be better choices than aluminum.
The bad odor from your water heater is most likely Hydrogen Sulfide (H2S) which can begin to form after extended idle periods. Running water through the system will eventually make it go away but it will take a LONG time. Best bet is to pull the anode, drain all the water and then flush it out the drain hole. I had this problem with my TT the first winter I had it and draining / flushing took care of the problem. In the winter, I pull the plug and put a piece of screen in its place (to keep bugs out) and any H2S that forms is vented as it appears.
__________________
Bill and Terri
2010 3400RL
2013 F350 6.7L DRW
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