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Old 09-28-2017, 06:34 PM   #21
beeje
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So I came home today from work and went right into the building where my montana lives. Disconnected the power cord. Took off the water heater cover and removed the switch and its 2 wires. Plug the camper back in to check for voltage and I get nothing. Go inside and turn on the inside switch and get nothing. Thinking WTF it worked on shore power a few weeks ago what gives. Went into house to get a cold beverage and discover the power is out. LOL. Well that explains why I was not getting anything on the meter.

I few hours later the power comes back on. I check again with the inside switch in the off position and I get nothing (thinking I was going to get 12 volts. I turn on the inside switch and check again and low and behold I get 120 volts like several of you guys said it was.

So I take back all my previous posts being very adamant about it being 12 volts. I was dead wrong which I clearly admit. Sorry

So the 12 volt inside switch apparently sends 12 volts to a relay that sends 120 volts to the switch on the outside of the heater that sends 120 volts to the element when that switch is turned on.
 
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Old 09-28-2017, 06:54 PM   #22
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Old 10-17-2017, 01:33 PM   #23
hunts800
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Got home and pulled switch. It is a 110 AC toggle switch. The bottom wire had melted the bottom of the switch, but did not trip breaker. Replaced switch, and wire attachments, and everything is working fine. I left it on for 3 days in the driveway. But....without knowing why the switch failed, I plan to never leave it in the "on" position overnight until I am confident it is working ok and is safe. My guess is the cheap OEM toggle switch was defective. I replaced the anode rod while I was at it.
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Old 10-17-2017, 03:00 PM   #24
rmthelen
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My switch also melted and the heater quit working. Bypassed the switch until I could find a new switch and decided that I didn't need the switch after all. Has been bypassed for 3 years now, just make sure you have good connection and use a waterproof connector.
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