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02-15-2013, 04:11 AM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Durango
Posts: 73
M.O.C. #10005
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Water Heater Issue
The water heater on my 2010, 2955RL is not working on gas. Electric OK. With the water heater switch on, I do not get any voltaage to the gas valve. The igniter is sparking but no gas for ignition. I checked the fuses (didn't pull them out) and they seem to be okay. They are not marked for water heater. The light on the water heater switch lights up so I assume power is getting that far. I'm only guessing the power to the gas valve goes thru a fuse. Any suggestions appreciated.
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02-15-2013, 05:07 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carmichael - CA
Posts: 7,362
M.O.C. #4831
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More than likely you have a bad coil on the gas valve. This has been discussed previously here. There are two coils on the gas valve that energize solenoids to let the gas flow. One of the coils has probably gone "open" and is not functioning. You can replace the gas valve easily for $80 - $120 depending on your source (E Bay, Dealer, etc.). Or you can just change the bad coil for $10 - $20 *IF* you can find a source (even given the White Rogers Part Number it is hard to find a source)
Here is a link to a previous discussion on this problem.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=45772
If all else fails, call Call Quality RV in Quartzsite, AZ. (928)927-3490 Ask for Monte. Tell him you need a 12 volt coil assembly for a gas valve. The part is made by White Rogers. Monte charged $18.90 + tax for a total of $20.62 + shipping last time someone bought from him.
__________________
Carl (n Susan)
There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB
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02-15-2013, 05:55 AM
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#3
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Durango
Posts: 73
M.O.C. #10005
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Would the bad coil prevent any power getting to that point?
I suspected a faulty gas valve but if no power gets to that point???
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02-15-2013, 10:24 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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Maybe a meter hooked up to the coil connections? Just throwing this out there...
__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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02-15-2013, 11:10 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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I would check to see that gas is getting to the valve, also
Check Carl's link to get the value of the coil and Ohm the coil (Pick coil) or pilot valve coil.
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02-15-2013, 04:01 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South
Posts: 2,499
M.O.C. #5140
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From Carl's thread:
BTW, Suburban told me that they do not sell the coils individually because of the liability. Both coils must energize for gas to flow and if an end user starts messing around with the coils it could cause a failure leading to fire. I guess their insurance premiums are pretty high already.
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02-16-2013, 02:13 AM
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#7
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Durango
Posts: 73
M.O.C. #10005
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Gas is getting to the valve but no power to the coils. I will start looking for either a limit seitch issue or a motherboard (if it has such a thing). Again, when I flip the switch inside the trailer there is no power getting to the coils. Thanks for all of the replys.
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02-17-2013, 01:01 AM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: West Sand Lake
Posts: 267
M.O.C. #10232
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I'm pretty sure that the electronic ignition just ignites the pilot light to heat the thremocouple. You may want to check the oriface for the pilot tube for those pesky oriface might spiders that love to make nests. The pilot light heats the thermocouple and when that is up to temperature, then the control opens the main gas valve. You will not get power to the main gas valve until then. Worth checking.
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