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06-29-2015, 12:34 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Full Timer In Naples, Florida
Posts: 1,049
M.O.C. #15731
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Roof Air
Hello, All
I was doing some maintenance on the back air Dometic thermo brisk 2 on the Monty and found an interesting thing. I removed the bezel on the ceiling and noticed that there duct work is sub par, so after a complete cleaning including cleaning the evaporator and condenser from the outside, I used metal tape to seal the cold air output to the ducts. They even had the cold air blowing into the roof from the holes that are in the steel roof rafters. I knew there was an air leak somewhere on the unit because when I would clean the roof the mildew would be real bad around the back of the roof behind the air conditioner. so I taped over the holes and now the air flies out of the air vents and it seems to work a lot better. I did leave the roof open and not tape up the holes in the roof rafters on the warm air return side because I'm ok with pulling warm air from the roof. has any of you seen this? and do you think closing the holes on the cold side is a good idea?, I would think so seeing that it would build mold in the roof area. Your Thoughts.
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2017, 3500 Ram Big Horn, 4x4, Crew Cab, DRW, Aisin Transmission, 4:10. Curt Q20, 2014 Mountaineer 331 RLT, Sailun's on the rv and truck.
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07-09-2015, 08:58 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Cold air output to ducts should be totally sealed. Haven't removed the trim in Bedroom air to see how mine are. I can say that all my outlet vents were taped so poorly to the ducts that cold air out of the ducts was leaking into the ceiling. John
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2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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07-09-2015, 10:32 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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Same here. I feel like I am rebuilding the rig problem by problem
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Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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07-10-2015, 08:06 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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Even my '06 stills needs attention. I've retaped the heating ducts at the floor registers, retaped some ceiling ducting that I can reach, and removed wall panels and vacuumed out the construction debris. Just know the manufacturers are working too fast to give a crap and cleanup and workmanship is concentrated on those thing you can see, and even then, well, many have complained about the obvious.
This seems to be a problem with most (I won't say all, cuz I'm guessing there's at least one that cares) RV manufacturesr and this won't get solved until the Japanese and their control processes get into the American RV manufacturers' pocket book some how.
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07-10-2015, 09:00 PM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Eureka
Posts: 276
M.O.C. #14208
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Maybe that is the problem I am having with A/C.with my 2014 3582RL. It does not seem that much air comes out of the ceiling vents. How do you remove the ceiling vents to see if there is a leak?
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07-11-2015, 07:38 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: West Richland
Posts: 1,253
M.O.C. #17164
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Jim mine just pop out with a little bit of pressure. Just be careful not to scratch anything. After reading on another post about the vents being to long and sticking to high into the duct work I checked and sure enough mine need to be trimmed.
Tom Marty
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07-20-2015, 12:19 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Full Timer In Naples, Florida
Posts: 1,049
M.O.C. #15731
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Yes I even trimmed my vents to make them more efficient. I am also considering blocking off and insulating the area behind the basement at the waste tanks due to the fact that warm air infiltrates the area from there. I live in Florida so freezing is not a problem but keeping the cold in is and I would think you lose a lot of cool air to the outside, being it is a direct connection through the cold air return under the stairs..
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2017, 3500 Ram Big Horn, 4x4, Crew Cab, DRW, Aisin Transmission, 4:10. Curt Q20, 2014 Mountaineer 331 RLT, Sailun's on the rv and truck.
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07-20-2015, 05:01 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,750
M.O.C. #7560
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Ok troops, let's add another question to this thread! So how did you find or get to the vent from the living room A/C since the intakes or returns are on the sides of the ceiling? Did you have to go up on the roof and pull the whole A/C out to get to that ceiling vent line since I see no access to the connection?
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07-20-2015, 03:02 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: West Richland
Posts: 1,253
M.O.C. #17164
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Rondo I am talking about the conditioned air return (pressurized) vents. It sounds like you are describing the quiet air system suction vents. I have not had those off yet. Just the little white plastic ones.
Tom Marty
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07-20-2015, 03:47 PM
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#10
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: holland patent
Posts: 174
M.O.C. #8973
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Does anybody know if it is possible to convert a regular air conditioner to a quiet cold air return system?
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07-20-2015, 03:53 PM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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I wish you guys had not brought this up...
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07-20-2015, 04:38 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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I had the same problem when I helped a neighbor clean his AC filter.when i removed the filter some sticky backed foam insulation had come on glued and cold air from both sides around duct was blowing blowing out and getting sucked back into the warm air return! This is a Dometic on SOB Sill under the two year Warrinty The tech sealed both sides with foil duck tape.
yep they don't make them like they use to.
my neighbor commented no wonder this unit never shuts off!
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