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05-25-2012, 07:14 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Leona
Posts: 6,382
M.O.C. #2059
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Water heater anode
This is for the new folks on the forum. Some may not know how or be aware of the need for water heater maintenance. I do this about every 6 months. I am going to outline a step-by-step protocol I use. Others may do it differently and that is fine. - 1. Turn off the electric switch outside in the water heater box.
- 2. Run the hot water until it is cool enough to the touch.
- 3. Then, if your unit has it, turn on the "water heater bypass".
- 4. With a 1-1/6" socket, ease out the anode and let the water drain out.
- 5. While the water is running out, brush the "barnacles" off the anode with a wire brush. If you are near a grinding wheel with a wire brush on it, that's better and quicker. If the anode is 2/3 used up, I replace it.
- 6. I use a water heater clean-out wand you can find at the RV store. It fits on the end of a water hose and has an on/off lever. This is for spraying and flushing the inside of the water heater.
- 7. When you have finished flushing, wrap the anode threads with Teflon tape and thread it in and tighten.
- 8. Turn the water heater bypass valve off to fill the water heater.
- 9. Run the hot water in the kitchen sink until the air is out of the line and water begins to flow.
- 10. Now it is safe to turn the electrical switch back on. With the tank full, you won't fry your heater coil.
- 11. Close the outside heater door, clean up and you are done.
Note: you don't have to turn the water off if you have a bypass valve.
My reason for the step-by-step listing is that sequence is important, not that I think anyone is an idiot. Happy RVing...............
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05-25-2012, 08:04 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: North East
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #10758
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Thanks for the reminder Stiles.
Actually, I always drain my water heater after we come back from a camping trip when I know we wont be going out for a while.
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05-25-2012, 09:30 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pahrump
Posts: 2,523
M.O.C. #1081
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Stiles. Nice job with the outline and a Great Reminder for all of us "Old Hands" too. This does need checking every few months and flushing the tank out also really helps.
Thanks!
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05-25-2012, 10:57 AM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Garland
Posts: 450
M.O.C. #10688
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X2 Stiles! I replace my water filter every 6 months and change it out at the same time I flush the hot water heater. A little TLC can save unnecessary issues down the road.
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05-25-2012, 02:56 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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Thanks for the reminder. Now that we are full timing there are some things like this that I'm going to have to put on a timing list since we don't "bring it back" any longer.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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05-25-2012, 03:29 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,156
M.O.C. #6920
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Tks Stiles....and anodes are inexpensive too!
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05-25-2012, 03:32 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Siloam Springs
Posts: 2,206
M.O.C. #8890
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Great information, thanks Stiles.
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05-26-2012, 02:41 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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Great advice. Remember not to use too much teflon tape, because you need metal to metal contact with the threads, which cut through the tape when racheted in.
__________________
Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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05-26-2012, 06:17 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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I pretty much follow the same procedure, but where I live I don't winterize and don't ever use the bypass (I don't even know where it is because I haven't looked for it.
But after emptying the tank, I do not refill it until I get to our next campground and hook up the water. Then after I know the tank is full (leave a hot water faucet on until the air is bled out and spits out water). Then I turn on the electric switch at the WH and turn on the switch in the coach for the propane, too.
If I leave water in my WH, I run the risk of "stinky water (caused by too much hydrogen sulfide present in some water supplies)". While this is harmless, it stinks bad and don't like dealing with it (I've had the problem twice). Since leaving the water drained over the past several years I have not run into this problem. In case you're wondering, I do use a filtration system for the city supply AND filling the fresh water tank but I have since learned that filters do not necessarily filter out whatever causes hydrogen sulfide.
GREAT REMINDER, Stiles!
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05-26-2012, 08:59 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Leona
Posts: 6,382
M.O.C. #2059
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I am sure the protocol will be different for those who don't full time, rather they store the unit for some extended time. Draining the heater for storage would be called for. My protocol is designed for full or long timers who pretty much have water in use 24/7/365.
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