Washer Dyer Combo Installation Details

[jpwhite]

A month ago, I posted a request for information from anyone who had installed the Splendide WD2100CX Washer Dryer Combo unit in my model (2019 3120RL) Montana. I since purchased and installed the washer / dryer in my RV, so thought I would share my information. Other layouts may be different requiring changes in installation.

First, the 3120RL has a closet on the right side of the bedroom that is plumbed for a washer. The closet is 27 inches font to back, 24.75 inches side to side at the floor, and 43.25 inches from the floor to the closet shelf. The Splendide combo washer dryer fits comfortably in this space.

I staged the washer into the RV directly from the tailgate of my pickup. I accomplished this because the delivery driver was flexible, and my daughter had the day off to help. I backed the truck up to the delivery truck and the driver and I “walked” the washer from the delivery truck into the back of the pickup. It fit nicely between the 5th wheel hitch and the closed tailgate. I drove to the RV and backed the truck alongside the RV so that the lowered tailgate was close to the door. I put a board across to bridge from the tailgate through the threshold of the door. My daughter and I were able to walk the washer across a board into the RV.

The washer (all packaging removed) fits in the entry hallway of the RV when all closed up. I could store it there while prepping for the install.

I planned to cut the 4-inch dryer vent hole centered 22 inches off the closet floor. I got several stud finder readings in that area. The readings may have been false, but there were no readings a few inches above and below that spot. As the installation instructions indicate the duct should slope down and away from the dryer, I decided to cut lower and centered the hole about 18 inches off the floor.

I removed the cabinetry covering the plumbing on the right side of the closet to ensure clearance for cut This was not strictly necessary allowed me to assess how I wanted to install a drain line for the drain away pan and but afforded the opportunity to add some insulation around the plumbing and make other minor improvements.

The hole is centered 7.5 inches from the back of the closet cabinetry containing the water supply and drain. If I had cut .5 inches closer to the front of the RV, there would have been a clearance problem outside with the vent cover and the raised joint between the side panel and fiberglass front cap of the Montana. I recommend moving it forward 1 or possibly 2 inches further away from the front of the RV (8.5 to 9.5 inches from the back of the closet).

I used silicone caulk to cover predrilled pilot holes and generously in two beads around the vent flange to provide a good seal. It screwed in easily. I painted the vent cover before installing it.

I decided not to use the drain away pan. The effort to run the drain line did not seem worth it. The pan would not address the most likely flood condition consisting of an overflow spewing out of the grey box drain. It only covers the floor directly under the washer. The one-inch drain connector would be overwhelmed the other likely leak scenarios.

I leveled the coach and completed prepping the closet and opened the slides.
My daughter and I used forearm forklift straps to move the Washer Dryer Combo into the bedroom. It fit up the stairs with the handrail in place and around the bedroom dresser without a problem. I lifted the bed to provide a little extra room. The forearm Forklift straps made lifting and maneuvering the 150-pound unit much easier.

Once in the bedroom, we had to remove the shipping bolts and plugs from the washer. It was a real pain getting them out.

The flexible dryer duct provided with the Splendide vent kit was only about 3 feet long and too short to accommodate installation. I purchased a 5-foot flexible aluminum dryer vent duct from the local ACE hardware. That worked fine.

While the closet width easily accommodates the installed washer, the closet door must be removed to provide clearance to get it in there. After removing it, we maneuvered the washer in front of the closet. We tilted the washer forward and lifted the back legs into the closet and held it there. I plugged the power cord into the outlet, secured the flexible duct to the dryer vent outlet, inserted the drain hose into the drain stand pipe, and attached the water hoses. We then lifted the front of the washer / dryer, rocking onto the back legs, and slid it into place. While doable, the tight space made it a little challenging at times.

With the unit in the closet, there is enough clearance for me to reach in with my head and upper torso between the top of the washer and the closet shelf to access the water valves and remove or install the water hoses. This will make winterizing and de-winterizing much easier. The extra room proved very handy an after installation leveling exercise.

One of the last steps is to secure the unit in place using brackets (SPLNDIDE SF BRACKET 31461). The brackets are screwed down over the front leveling feet to prevent front to back and side to side movement. There was not enough clearance between the bottom of the washer and the floor for the bracket to fit.

The washer had to be raised between an eighth to a quarter of an inch to accommodate the height of the bracket. Raising the front, of course required me to also raise the back. Rather than uninstall the whole thing, we were able to tip the WD forward, and with my wife holding it in place, I could reach back and turned the rear leveling feet. I raise the front, counting the number of turns until we had sufficient clearance to install the brackets. We then tilted the unit forward and I raise the back by turning the feet in back the same number of turns. It took a couple of iterations get the right height and be level front to back and side to side.

I suggest checking the height and level prior to installation, especially if you are installing it into a less generous spot.

I found one last little "gotcha" after we reinstalled the closet door. The inside closet doorknob was just ever so slightly touching the front of the unit when the door was closed. I figured that would be a problem with all the movement while towing. I unscrewed the brackets, moved the washer back about ¾ of an inch and reattached the brackets. This provided plenty of clearance between the washer and the inside closet doorknob while maintaining plenty of clearance for the dryer vent and other hook ups in back.

Jim