Montana Owners Club - Keystone Montana 5th Wheel Forum - View Single Post

footloose · 10-06-2010, 06:17 AM

Bruce, thank you so much for your detailed e-mail. I hope you don't mind, but your pictures and info was so good that I took it upon myself to post them for you. I'm sure many will benefit from your efforts. Your e-mail and pictures are below.
Sharon

'Hi Dick,
The fireplace I used was a Burley model 537. The website is: http://www.electricfireplaces.com/wallmount.htm#Black
As you can see on the photos, I do not have a central vac. The Monty did come with a hole cut for one and a cover as you can see. I expect they cut it during the build and then realized I had not ordered one. I was glad that I did have the hole and couldn't have done the installation without one.
The installation did not require cutting anything on the trim of the Monty. I gently knocked out the panel under the TV. The panel actully could be replaced and it would look like nothing happened. The large panel was a separate piece from the one where the vac is. I did not have to cut the trim peice (1 x 3) at the botton of the cab. In fact I had to raise the fireplace up by screwing a one inch board to the base that the water heater sets on. The fireplace out of the box can be free standing, hang on the wall, or can be recessed in an opening. I recessed it some. There is not enough room to recess it all the way. I bent a piece of steel in an L shape to fit under the lip on the recessed part of the fireplace and screwed it to the one inch board mentioned above.
Now for the hard part. As I mentioned, the fireplace can be used free standing therefore it comes with about a four inch surround to make it flush with the wall. Since I recessed mine some so the living room slide would clear it I had to cut down the surround by about two inches. I used a band saw cut it down and then welded the flanges back on. Now before your get discourged by the fact the you may not have a welder the same thing could be done with wood!!! The fireplace comes with a flimsy cable to anchor it. I didn't used it. I used the same concept but bought some good cable, some cable clamps, a turnbuckle, a pully and a long eyebolt. I attached the cable to the sides of the fireplace with the clamps and turnbuckle. Getting the right amount of cable a few trys. I got access to the back of the water heater compartment in the basement by removing the wall board with the angle in the basement. I drilled a hole for the eyebolt thru the aluminum one inch square tubing. This allows for the eyebolt with the cable attached to be inserted thru the hole and tightened. This keeps the top tight against the cabinet and the bottow is held with the by the L shaped bracket.
I did run a separate 110v power source from the fuse box. Hope this helps. Sorry I didn't take photos during construction. If things aren't clear enough maybe I could send some sketches.
Bruce"

10-06-2010, 06:17 AM	#10
footloose Montana Fan Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Livingston Posts: 431 M.O.C. #9442	Bruce, thank you so much for your detailed e-mail. I hope you don't mind, but your pictures and info was so good that I took it upon myself to post them for you. I'm sure many will benefit from your efforts. Your e-mail and pictures are below. Sharon 'Hi Dick, The fireplace I used was a Burley model 537. The website is: http://www.electricfireplaces.com/wallmount.htm#Black As you can see on the photos, I do not have a central vac. The Monty did come with a hole cut for one and a cover as you can see. I expect they cut it during the build and then realized I had not ordered one. I was glad that I did have the hole and couldn't have done the installation without one. The installation did not require cutting anything on the trim of the Monty. I gently knocked out the panel under the TV. The panel actully could be replaced and it would look like nothing happened. The large panel was a separate piece from the one where the vac is. I did not have to cut the trim peice (1 x 3) at the botton of the cab. In fact I had to raise the fireplace up by screwing a one inch board to the base that the water heater sets on. The fireplace out of the box can be free standing, hang on the wall, or can be recessed in an opening. I recessed it some. There is not enough room to recess it all the way. I bent a piece of steel in an L shape to fit under the lip on the recessed part of the fireplace and screwed it to the one inch board mentioned above. Now for the hard part. As I mentioned, the fireplace can be used free standing therefore it comes with about a four inch surround to make it flush with the wall. Since I recessed mine some so the living room slide would clear it I had to cut down the surround by about two inches. I used a band saw cut it down and then welded the flanges back on. Now before your get discourged by the fact the you may not have a welder the same thing could be done with wood!!! The fireplace comes with a flimsy cable to anchor it. I didn't used it. I used the same concept but bought some good cable, some cable clamps, a turnbuckle, a pully and a long eyebolt. I attached the cable to the sides of the fireplace with the clamps and turnbuckle. Getting the right amount of cable a few trys. I got access to the back of the water heater compartment in the basement by removing the wall board with the angle in the basement. I drilled a hole for the eyebolt thru the aluminum one inch square tubing. This allows for the eyebolt with the cable attached to be inserted thru the hole and tightened. This keeps the top tight against the cabinet and the bottow is held with the by the L shaped bracket. I did run a separate 110v power source from the fuse box. Hope this helps. Sorry I didn't take photos during construction. If things aren't clear enough maybe I could send some sketches. Bruce"