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Old 07-14-2019, 02:02 PM   #3
jcurtis934
Montana Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
The samsung 18 cu ft is what I went with because it uses an inverter compressor and has dual evaporators so there is no air bleed from freezer to fridge section. The max current draw for this unit is 3 amps. Most times it loafs at 140-170 watts on restart with the fridge cool, then drops to 40 watts or so....or a little over one amp, then drops to a 1/3 of an amp. You will have to rework the enclosure, seal up the vents with foam, remove propane line, and implement some kind of restraint system to keep the fridge in its cavity, and have an inverter installation done with proper electrical safety devices, and enough battery capacity to keep things running without going anywhere near the 50% charge level limit on batteries...lithium iron phosphate being the exception, but then they are really expensive and would also require replacing the existing converter with a new unit that could deal with that technology. Just my two cents worth.
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2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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