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Old 10-25-2019, 07:47 AM   #11
Irv
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: LIVINGSTON
Posts: 42
M.O.C. #19411
amount of grease

Quote:
Originally Posted by masterdrago View Post
I finished up the full bearing service on our 5r. All new USA made Timkin parts. The one odd thing I noticed was that the front left wheel seemed tight after doing the preload to the bearings (torque to 50 Ft Lbs while spinning the rotor, then loosen and finger tighten the spindle nut). I backed off and did a repeat and it still seemed a bit tight but had a tiny amount of play. I'm going to take the 5r for a ride this week and will check the rotor temperature. Anyone have ideas on this?

Tips learned from the experience since I had not done any bearing work since the late 60s.

1) Although recommended here on the MOC, I thought I could break the lug nuts with an impact wrench by chocking the tire after lifting. A BIG NOT on that. Make sure to break the nuts b4 raising the 5r.

2: The tires are a lot heavier than I was expecting. Be prepared for that.

3) I chose to raise all the tires off the ground together using the 6pt level-up. Worked like a champ. Found it a good idea to add two 14x14x1 oak planks under each jack to make it easier for the lift. I also, for the sake of safety, put heavy duty jack stands under the frame. Plan on having a large number of 4x4 timber available to get the jacks up high enough.

4) Removing the rotor is a very dirty job (brake dust & grease). Have a large tub or litter box under the wheel you're working on. When the outer bearing drops out, it will not crash to the concrete. Plus, all the black, nasty brake dust will fall somewhere that will be easy to clean up.

5) Using a big screwdriver might work for some but I got a dedicated seal puller @AMZN $6.

6) You will need lot and lots of shop towels. I used the "Quicker Picker Upper". Nearly as strong and way less expensive. The shop towels work better if you are dropping heavy bearings into a place to dry after cleaning them.


7) I used 4 big (19oz) cans of CRC Brakleen ($47/case - dozen @AMZN). Cleaned up the rotor and all the brake related parts on the hub.

8) I found that a brass punch was no match for the pressed in races. They are incredibly hard and will eat up a brass punch. I used a 3/8"x8" steel pin punch. The rotor needed to be supported ~5" up on the edge to free up space under it to knock out the outer race. Much less for the inner race. Was an easy task and could be performed on the side of the highway if needed.

9) Put the new races in the freezer for ~10 minutes b4 dropping them in. Race and seal installation sets can be had from $18 to $1,050.99. Mine was $26 from AMZN. The installation is easy and again, can be done roadside if your freezer is cold.

10) The really nasty part is the grease. I used a Lisle bearing packer and just slightly over one 14oz tube of Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Automotive grease. $7/tube @AMZN.

11) If you have a socket for the water heater element, then you have one to torque the spindle nut. 1 1/2"

12) There is a huge difference of opinion on whether to use anti-seize on the lug nuts. A few of my wheel bolts looked to have slight rust on the threads. I used the tiniest amount of copper anti-seize that I've been using on nuts and bolts for 50 years. The torque values are listed in the LCI service manual for my 1/2"-20 studs as 1st stage 20-25ftlbs, 2nd stage 50-60ftlbs, & 3rd stage 100-120ftlbs. That's at 10, 25 & 50 miles.

If I think of any more tips, I'll pass them on. Please feel free to add some of your thought.
So that was 1 tube used for the total job or 1 tube/wheel?
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