Quote:
Originally Posted by TN road dog
I agree the heat duct will not keep the rear of the coach from freezing.
I installed a typical bathroom exhaust fan in the basement next to the rear wall at the top of the basement ceiling. I connected a 3” flex duct to it and ran it towards the rear of the underbelly close to the fresh water tank. I run the fan continuously on cold nights circulating air even when the furnace has cycled off. The air is basically near coach temperature as it’s in close proximity to the furnace. I can and have in extreme conditions, run a oil filled heater beneath the exhaust fan intake. Please Don’t confuse the oil filled heater with a oil fired combustion heater.
This has kept our underbelly above freezing down to 17 degrees. Not sure about temperatures below that.
Also, one winter I used the oil filled heater in conjunction with the exhaust fan to keep the water system from freezing instead of winterizing the unit.
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I like this setup. Very safe. I am curious how you pushed the flex duct to the back of the basement?
I'm thinking of using a 12v fan in the duct so it would also work boondocking.
Alternatively, after watching this video,
Bottom chassis. Shows heated duct install @ 1min (down the middle).
https://youtu.be/j_1JQYSZbmY
it shows them installing the hot air duct down the center of the RV before the floor goes in. I was thinking make a few holes in the duct beneath the aft most floor vent next time I have the coroplast off.
OR maybe drill holes through the aft floor duct to allow hot air into that end of the underbelly.
Risky, because I don't know how much room there is under the duct and the top of the freshwater tank.