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KTManiac · 06-09-2009, 10:47 AM

Here are my mods to the sewer boom:

Original boom that came with the 5er. The tube part was 23" long, too short for a 15' Rhino hose and fittings.

New 46" long tube. It now fits about 14' of rhino hose with its fittings on both ends.

Since the tube is now twice as long, much longer than its support & clamping strap were designed for, I came up with a method to help keep it from flopping around while travelling down the road. It consists of a stainless steel eye-bolt and double ended brass snap.

Here is where the eye-bolt is located in the convenience center.

Here, I modified the boom support so that the tube would be able to pivot down and act as a slunky. I replaced the too short 1/4-20 bolt with a longer 5/16-18 bolt so the locknut would not come loose. The holes in the bracket were almost 5/16" diameter, too big for a 1/4" detent ball pin, so I reamed them out to .315" diameter and went with 5/16" hardware. Had to ream out the nylon spacer to .315 as well. The ball detent pin is tethered to the bracket with a stainless steel lanyard, to keep it from getting lost by yours truly. Also, I ground a radius on the sharp corner of the bracket (where the pivot bolt is located) so the tube can pivot down without interference. Not seen in the picture, I also drilled the holes for the cotter pin that holds the whole shebang to the frame to accommodate a 3/16 cotter pin instead of the way too small OEM cotter pin. Don't want this thing falling off the 5er at speed!

Here it is, pin removed, swung out, and pivoted down.

Since I leave the hose connected to the dump pipe, I decided to add a gate valve near the terminus of the pipe to avoid and accidental release of sewage into the Rhino hose. So, I now have the two remote valves in the convenience center for the black tank and grey tank, the remote valve for the galley tank, a manual valve at the end of the whole works, and a cap on the end of the Rhino hose. Oh, the cotter pin is in this photo at the top, left of center, on top of the vertical post above the big flex hose.

I just had to add some vinyl lettering to my project, for fun. In case you are wondering, my last name is Cooper, and some friends call me "Coop".

This part is for people that aren't sure about what exactly might be in a Poop Chute!

06-09-2009, 10:47 AM	#5
KTManiac Montana Master Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Posts: 560 M.O.C. #8818	Here are my mods to the sewer boom: Original boom that came with the 5er. The tube part was 23" long, too short for a 15' Rhino hose and fittings. New 46" long tube. It now fits about 14' of rhino hose with its fittings on both ends. Since the tube is now twice as long, much longer than its support & clamping strap were designed for, I came up with a method to help keep it from flopping around while travelling down the road. It consists of a stainless steel eye-bolt and double ended brass snap. Here is where the eye-bolt is located in the convenience center. Here, I modified the boom support so that the tube would be able to pivot down and act as a slunky. I replaced the too short 1/4-20 bolt with a longer 5/16-18 bolt so the locknut would not come loose. The holes in the bracket were almost 5/16" diameter, too big for a 1/4" detent ball pin, so I reamed them out to .315" diameter and went with 5/16" hardware. Had to ream out the nylon spacer to .315 as well. The ball detent pin is tethered to the bracket with a stainless steel lanyard, to keep it from getting lost by yours truly. Also, I ground a radius on the sharp corner of the bracket (where the pivot bolt is located) so the tube can pivot down without interference. Not seen in the picture, I also drilled the holes for the cotter pin that holds the whole shebang to the frame to accommodate a 3/16 cotter pin instead of the way too small OEM cotter pin. Don't want this thing falling off the 5er at speed! Here it is, pin removed, swung out, and pivoted down. Since I leave the hose connected to the dump pipe, I decided to add a gate valve near the terminus of the pipe to avoid and accidental release of sewage into the Rhino hose. So, I now have the two remote valves in the convenience center for the black tank and grey tank, the remote valve for the galley tank, a manual valve at the end of the whole works, and a cap on the end of the Rhino hose. Oh, the cotter pin is in this photo at the top, left of center, on top of the vertical post above the big flex hose. I just had to add some vinyl lettering to my project, for fun. In case you are wondering, my last name is Cooper, and some friends call me "Coop". This part is for people that aren't sure about what exactly might be in a Poop Chute!