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Old 03-12-2018, 08:34 PM   #7
BB_TX
Montana Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,154
M.O.C. #6433
You say you have nothing at the switch. Does that mean you checked it with a volt meter? Or it just doesn't do anything?

I am going on the assumption that your 2006 is similar to my 2007. No remote. No powered rear stabs. And my wire with the 30 amp in-line fuse is connected to the battery side of the auto reset circuit breaker, not the load side. Meaning power for the jacks does not go thru the breaker.

With a voltmeter, put your meter negative lead on the battery negative post. Then put the positive lead on the point the jack power wire is connected. Does it have 12 v there?
If yes, pull the in-line fuse and see if it has power to the fuse holder.
If yes, insert the fuse leaving enough contact showing to touch the meter lead to both sides of the fuse. Does it have power there?
If yes, then check for power at your switch. I would use a piece of wire to extend my negative meter lead so that you are still using the battery post for your negative reference for the meter. Do you have power at the switch? Probably the center terminal.
If yes, then check to see if you have power to the other terminals when you actuate the switch.
Hopefully by this point you will have found a point where there is a break in power. If not, then I would need to go look at mine farther to see exactly how it is wired past that point.
Anything connected to the frame is supposed to be grounded. But I would still use the battery negative post for my initial troubleshooting.
And while you are at it, make sure the battery negative cable is tight at the battery and where it connects to the frame.
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Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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