Quote:
Originally Posted by sberlin
This looks impressive and something I might pursue on our 3701LK. My question is how did u remove the underbelly and more importantly how did u replace?
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Our rig is a 2012, and the coroplast material is attached with TEK screws and in places along with aluminum strips screwed into the frame. Newer rigs I believe have the coroplast attached with a special nail, which can be removed and then replaced with the TEK screws. I just removed all the fasteners and dropped the coroplast, removing it totally away from the area. After making a repair to the crack in the bottom of the grey tank, I purchased a couple of 1 1/2" angle iron from a big box store along with 1/4" X 1" hex head TEK screws. This gave me the original two braces that were installed plus the two new braces, so there is now a brace every 12 inches under the tanks. Wood blocks or foam boards worked for me, along with silicone caulking to glue them to the bottom of the tanks where the braces were. The tanks have a 1/2" per foot of slope on the bottom, so each block will be 1/2" thinner than the previous one starting from the front of the tank going toward the drain end. Once the caulking was dry, I removed the braces, installed the coroplast back in place and the reinstalled the braces. I did all this by my self, but an extra helper would make the job easier. Now, with the tanks full, they do not flex as they are supported from underneath instead of hanging from the lips of the tanks. Obviously, do all this work with both tanks completely empty
You also need a good drill/driver with the proper nut driver for the screws, because the TEK screws will drill their own hole as they are driven and then will screw into the hole they make in the steel frame. And, safety glasses or goggles are extremely important as you will be attaching the screws while laying on your back under the rig looking up.