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Old 10-23-2014, 02:17 PM   #5
Mark N.
Montana Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Ogden
Posts: 638
M.O.C. #13862
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by WaltBennett

I've found that draining & then flushing (just turning on a water source) does a good job of getting all the crud out of the bottom. Usually let the water run for fifteen minutes or so. Getting it off the anode sometimes can be more work.
Yes, flushing I believe, should happen at least twice a year. As you said, it keeps the sediment out of the bottom of the tank. It also keeps the anode plug threads from rusting into the tank and making removal a bugger of a bear. Breaking them loose twice a year (at least) and re-wrapping them with teflon tape does wonders. (Don't evr use anti-seize...It is toxic) Now the anode rod and the heating element are not going to be cleaned hardly at all by flushing. This is where the acidic de-scaling does wonders. It removes the calcium deposits that literally encase the heating element. This is where most of the sediment that accumulates in the bottom of the tank comes from. It is constantly flaking off of the heating element primarily. Of course some accumulates on the tank walls themselves that won't be removed by flushing either. Again, a periodic de-scaling really reduces this by a large degree. This flushing and de-scaling is actually a good practice in a home hot water heater too, unless you have soft water. Dilute muriatic acid is often used in that application, but it requires great care in handling. It has a pH that is truly dangerous. I have muriatic acid I use to balance the pH in a 500 gal. hot tub, but I take real precautions when handling the stuff.
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