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Old 01-14-2017, 04:57 AM   #6
timandpeggy
Established Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 46
M.O.C. #17685
The dealer I went to installed a doubler on the broken stud. From what I'm seeing, and from my experience as an aircraft mechanic, the material is much too thin for the weight of the fridge, whether it's an absorbition type (in the 352) or residential (in the 353). When the cable slide mechanism pulls against the wall stud to move the wall, it strains the wall, and the weakest point gives. Since the weld is actually stronger than the surrounding material (since the material has been changed by the heating of the welding), the only true fix will be to:
1. Remove the slide and disassemble the wall to gain access to about 12" on either side of the break.
2. Install "L" shaped doublers of approx 1/8" thickness with solid rivets from about 6" outside the break to the extreme end of the stud.
3. Install a slightly shorter section of the same doubler, starting about 3" from the end of the first one.
4. Reassemble the wall and slide.
5. Install additional rollers under the fridge to alleviate the load.
This would be an extensive fix, and I really don't think Keystone would approve it on any rig. From my experience, Keystone expects the dealer to do the best temporary repair, than when it fails again, give them another shot at it. My repairing dealer, as well as I, had recommended to Keystone that the trailer be taken to the Pendelton, Or. Keystone factory (as we're in Utah), but they scoffed. My wall currently hS some movement (nowhere near as much as it did before the temporary repair was made), and when I get a few weeks, I'll take it back and have the slide removed.
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