It might not get it off that circuit, though. In our '03 3295RK, the GFCI circuit includes the bathroom outlets, the outlet on the bedroom side of the wall by the sink (but not the one by the front closet), the patio outlet, the fridge, the TV, the outlets above the tv we use for vcr/dvd, the outlets in the kitchen slide, along the back wall by the kitchen, the peninsula outlets and the computer desk outlets. Lots of things on that one circuit. So we also have problems with popping breakers. We run electric heaters upstairs and downstairs. It's extremely exasperating. And we supposedly have 50amp service. In reality it's 20 amps for the second AC prep (have the prep, not the 2nd AC) and 30 amps for everything else. I understand the late 2003 (the flat floor version) and later models have a better setup for electrical power.
We ended up chopping that breaker, seeing what no longer worked and checked outlets with a VOM to figure this out on ours.
Chip, if you're electrically skilled you can probably run or change some of the circuits. Some folks in this forum have done that. I just end up cussing at it.
We did discover most of the time it won't trip until Vicki has programmed a bunch of record programs into the VCR. (not really, it just seems that way!) That way she gets to enter them all again.
By the way, unless you have something in the basement you want to keep from freezing, you don't really need a heater in there. I just covered exposed water lines with those foam insulation tubes intended for copper water lines and filled every exposed opening between basement and coach with that expanding spray foam insulation in a can. We have spent a lot of time in temperatures down to 14 degrees and not had a problem in the basement with water lines.
Do be sure to insulate the low point drains, though. They're the first to freeze. If they freeze up into the belly they can close off the water lines. So keep a hair dryer and extension cord handy, along with something dry to lay on.