09-07-2012, 01:54 AM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Montana3800RE
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ARJ
Boy, talk about making mountains out of mole hills!
Take the damn zerks out and throw them away. Follow the Timken instructions posted above by 8.1al. It shouldn't be necessary to repack the bearings more than every couple of years except to pull a wheel and check the crappy brake linings that were installed.
As far as the bearing adjustments-the outer bearing nut should be tightened fully and the backed off about an 1/8th of a turn allowing for the castle lock or cotter pin to be installed.
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I pull every trailer into my shop every winter when our business is slow and pull apart every wheel clean, inspect, and repack every bearing by hand,and also clean the hub with solvent, I do not use the easy lube. The problem with the easy lube is it fills the air cavity up with grease between the bearings and as the hub heats up it will retain the heat more. I want to see what is going on inside my hub with the bearings, brake lineings, and all brake parts, that's why I tear it down. Over the years I have seen so many folks broke down along side the road with fried wheel bearings or screwed up spindals. Happy Campin..........Ron
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I bet none of those people you see along side the road have the EZ lube system though.
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