Montana Owners Club - Keystone Montana 5th Wheel Forum

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-   -   Black water valve not closing (

caroldee2735 09-06-2017 04:50 PM

Black water valve not closing
Of course level indicator lights don't work so I rely on toilet giving a little burp when getting full. Busy with grandkids etc I wasn't paying attention and realized it had been several weeks since I dumped black water tank. When I pulled lever nothing came out until I started flushing . I think the valve must be letting water slowly leak out. Do I need a new valve or is there something else I can try. I thought maybe paper was sticking to it it. I dumped in water softener , dawn , flushed and flushed, still doesn't seem to hold water.

DQDick 09-06-2017 05:45 PM

You could try getting one of those valves that you hook a garden hose to and attach it to the sewer exit, turn the hose on and backflush. If it's not a new rig, however, the odds are that you'll need a new valve.

cw3jason 09-06-2017 06:29 PM

The valves the factory uses are junk. hard to move and will fail. Replace it with a Valterra valve

rohrmann 09-06-2017 08:47 PM

You might try getting one of those add-on Valterra valves you install on the drain outlet where you connect your drain hose, close it and start adding water with whatever high power detergent you choose, maybe even hot water with dishwasher detergent, and run enough water into the black tank so the entire valve should be covered. Let this sit for a few days, then bring the water level up so the water is backing up almost into the toilet. Do this with the stuck valve open. Then, drain the entire tank while running more water into the toilet. Once the water has run for a while, then try closing the valve that you were unable to close all the way. You may find the TP that was keeping it from closing has dissolved and you don't need to replace the valve. We had a couple stay with us in our rig when we had it out on our shakedown trip years ago, and one of them disposed of one of those moist wipes down the toilet, which proceeded to get stuck in the valve, and no amount of water would move it. That was a quick $250 lost that the RV shop charged to remove the wipe.

caroldee2735 09-06-2017 10:07 PM

That sounds like good advice. I will try it. I read on this forum that some use rid x , might that help too?

caroldee2735 09-06-2017 10:15 PM

I have a sewer solution thing that shoots a powerful stream up into the tank. I did that several times. I have the valterra valve on end of discharge pipe. I always keep that open because if gray water. I will try closing that trying to get black water tank full .

DQDick 09-06-2017 10:31 PM

Many of us do use an additive. Usually something like Happy Camper or Weis, but some do use Ridx.

speedster100 09-07-2017 08:54 AM

When I pulled mine apart a couple weeks ago I discovered the factory had not installed the valve correctly. When the cable was fully closed (pushed all the way in) the valve remained 1/3 open. I had already bought a full replacement kit so I installed it as the OEM unit is a piece of crap in comparison.

Good luck messing with it, fyi I changed the valve & cable out in less than an hour... Not a big job at all.....

beeje 09-23-2017 06:07 AM

I just got finished yesterday replacing all 3 of the junk Bristol valves with Valterra valves. The cables were routed horribly. Either way to long of short with sharp bends with none of the cables anchored in any way. Previously I had to use all my might with two hands to operate the valves. Now they can literally be opened and closed with one finger. I also moved the galley pull handle to the middle level up leg much closer to the others and easier to get to. Previously you had to be a contortionist to get to it, behind the rear tire trough the frame behind the bottom skirting.

CORattler 09-23-2017 08:27 AM

My black tank valve would not close all the way and allowed black tank contents to leak past the valve. When the valve was removed I discovered that a toss in packet had jammed between the closure blade and the seal. I replaced the valve and no longer use toss in packets. Problem solved.

caroldee2735 09-23-2017 11:23 AM

The new valves sound great. When I was still under warranty I thought Campers world replaced mine , whatever they did seemed to make it worse.

mhs4771 09-23-2017 11:48 AM

I refuse to toss in those packet, because not always does it totally dissolve. I'll cut open a corner and dump the contents into a jar or other container, add water to dissolve the contents, then add it to the back tank.

caroldee2735 09-23-2017 12:36 PM

Good idea to dissolve first

routemaster 08-26-2018 03:16 PM

Fail to close black tanck
5 Attachment(s)
Just today we changed out our black tank valve,This one has been in our E for about 5 years.Tank been in use every day fulltimers.It looks to be very sandy and the grove which takes the blade is cloged, stoping it from closing.There was solid chunks coming out on removal of valve We have use parks that have well water?

RLem3006 11-15-2018 01:26 PM

Black water Valve replacement.
Was wondering if "beege" or anyone that has replaces these valves with a "Valterra" brand could relate on how difficult and how too's on replacing, gaining access to, and ol Dude.
Mine is a 2009 model36675RE.

Thanks in advance Fellers!! Happy Trails!!

carl n susan 11-15-2018 02:10 PM

Many of us have done this repair. It is relatively easy. I seem to remember a 2009 is a pre-dropped frame model. That makes dropping the coroplast a little more time consuming. All models and years have a similar problem. The plumbing is installed without any slack. The valves have a lip which needs to fit into the plumbing. The best solution is to cut out part of the drain line and install a 3" no hub connector.

There have been several discussions on the change in the past. Search on "black tank" or "valve replacement" to find them. Here are some:

beeje 11-15-2018 04:06 PM

Mine is an 2011 so it has the drop down frame in the front. As Carl said that makes it much easier to do the 2 front tanks. If yours is not a drop down frame I would cut the coroplast covering from side to side behind the front valves, then remove screws towards the front to access the valves. If you are mechanically inclined, you will figure out how to do it. Its pretty simple.

As for the galley tank, that's a little more difficult. Find where the drain line comes through the covering and cut around it in a 2 foot or so square. Only cut 3 sides leaving one side uncut (the front side) so you can fold it down, do your work and fold it back up and tape it shut.

Matrap27 12-04-2018 05:01 PM

If i change out the old valves with new "Valterra" valves do I need to order vaves with cables or can I reuse the old ones.

beeje 12-04-2018 06:46 PM

You will need new cables. Order the valves with the cable lengths you think that you need as a package (ie. 6'/8'/10'). If you are not sure what length you need, order the longest ones. The cables can be trimmed to the desired length. Go to there web site and look for installation instructions. You will read things like the cables have to be straight for at least 6" from the handle/no bends less than 24" diameter?/shortest possible length/cables securely anchored along the way etc.

Montana Man 12-05-2018 05:58 AM


Originally Posted by Matrap27 (Post 1125637)
If i change out the old valves with new "Valterra" valves do I need to order vaves with cables or can I reuse the old ones.

You can get valves with cables if you want to do future repairs. Otherwise I would rx valves with a direct pull rod. Extensions can be found if the handles need to extend out beyond the frame.

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